Battery Disconnect

thirtydaZe wrote:
Well, i went out and took a solid look at things, my positive post has 4 wires, two 6 gauge, and two smaller wires, im guess 10 or 12 gauge.

My negative post has only two 6 gauge wires, so im guessing a lot of wires groundng to the frame.

Best bet to isolate what one of my positive cables is the main power and just put the disconnect on that alone?

If you want to completely isolate the batts from all draws, you need to know which wires carry what. As said above, some things don't draw unless you use them, like the slide or jacks. Other things like the LP alarm/stereo clock by- pass the usual battery disconnect.

So just collect those wires that you need to be off and ignore the ones that are off anyway.

Good point mentioned above about your break-away brake switch.

Note that your Trimetric if you have one will draw too just to keep its lighted numbers on, unless you isolate its pos terminal. (or you could undo its fuse on its pos line) Means a reset for every trip if that matters to you at all (doesn't matter the way I use the Trimetric)

My main use of the battery disconnect is when charging from a portable charger. I disconnect the batts and run the rig 12v from the converter (poor at charging) while the portable charges the batts with no draw on them from the rig. In that case I only need to have the switch on the main wire (either neg or pos) to the rig's converter/DC panel.