Battery equalization in southern California
I'm looking for a place or a person in southern California that can equalize my 2 Trojan t105s. I called a couple local battery shops and they didn't know what I was talking about. I know a few of you...
Forum Discussion
After running my T1275 in bulk mode today for an hour on my PD9245 at 14.4V, SG on a 2 year old battery deemed "no good" by the local golf course, I was getting readings of 1.265 across 5 cells. One cell has a higher fluid level, above the max mark, and has been that way since day one when I received the battery, with a reading of 1.250.
I disconnected the battery completely from the trailer, and put on that Mega Watt 33 amp power supply unit, and adjusted the pot to give me 15.04V at the terminals with my volt meter.
That little tiny unit is something else... the little Honda EU1000i grunted a bit at first, flowing about 27 amps to start and the amps came down rather quickly... in 20 minutes, it was still at 15.04V but the amperage, based on my amp flow meter, was down to 9 amps, and the fluid was bubbling nicely. It continued to hold 9 amps for another 30 minutes, not moving up or down, so I shut the power supply charger off.
Let things sit for about another 30 or 40 minutes. V was still showing a surface charge at high 12.94V. Popped the caps, and with no temp correction, SG was 1.280 for 5 cells, and the over filled one was sitting at 1.270.
I have never seen 1.280 for the specific gravity on this battery... ever, until now. So my take on it is yes, you do need to on occasion, give it the juice to scrub things out and shake things up. And I thought my Sears manual 6 amp charger and taking it to 16.0V was enough. Not on a 150 Ah golf cart battery. Disconnect it from the trailer, and some brute force voltage, with the attendant volume of amps... has made a difference in shaking some of the buggaboo in my battery.
YMMV, but you really, without a doubt, need a unique, dumb charger, with some 16.0V capability and some decent amps to push things around inside the battery at the plate level, while keeping an eye on things.
BTW, at this point in time, I really do consider a Trojan T1275 a sort of "problem child" in the Trojan family. It needs a lot of hand holding and baby sitting to really get the voltage and the amperage up there to clean things up, to get it back to near it's full potential. Fine if you have the time to monkey with it, otherwise, the 6v T105 jobs are a much better bet, far easier to take care of and maintain, for the average weekend happy camper.
I disconnected the battery completely from the trailer, and put on that Mega Watt 33 amp power supply unit, and adjusted the pot to give me 15.04V at the terminals with my volt meter.
That little tiny unit is something else... the little Honda EU1000i grunted a bit at first, flowing about 27 amps to start and the amps came down rather quickly... in 20 minutes, it was still at 15.04V but the amperage, based on my amp flow meter, was down to 9 amps, and the fluid was bubbling nicely. It continued to hold 9 amps for another 30 minutes, not moving up or down, so I shut the power supply charger off.
Let things sit for about another 30 or 40 minutes. V was still showing a surface charge at high 12.94V. Popped the caps, and with no temp correction, SG was 1.280 for 5 cells, and the over filled one was sitting at 1.270.
I have never seen 1.280 for the specific gravity on this battery... ever, until now. So my take on it is yes, you do need to on occasion, give it the juice to scrub things out and shake things up. And I thought my Sears manual 6 amp charger and taking it to 16.0V was enough. Not on a 150 Ah golf cart battery. Disconnect it from the trailer, and some brute force voltage, with the attendant volume of amps... has made a difference in shaking some of the buggaboo in my battery.
YMMV, but you really, without a doubt, need a unique, dumb charger, with some 16.0V capability and some decent amps to push things around inside the battery at the plate level, while keeping an eye on things.
BTW, at this point in time, I really do consider a Trojan T1275 a sort of "problem child" in the Trojan family. It needs a lot of hand holding and baby sitting to really get the voltage and the amperage up there to clean things up, to get it back to near it's full potential. Fine if you have the time to monkey with it, otherwise, the 6v T105 jobs are a much better bet, far easier to take care of and maintain, for the average weekend happy camper.
