I believe you know already that there are many different chemistries of lithiums seen in this chart.
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/bu_216_summary_table_of_lithium_based_batteriesLiFePO4 (lfp) is what all dropin style batteries are along with prismatic cells like mine. Dropin batteries use a couple different style of cells which can either be cylindrical, pouch or prismatic. There maybe an added chemistry to cathode by the manufacturer, GBS is Manganese to the cathode material and are referred to as LiFeMnPO4 or LFMP cells
The difference between say my system which is more a diy (but came as a package) or BB (other dropins) is the charger/ discharge current allowed by the bms and components attached.
I'm not going into the weeds explaining whether to top or bottom balance (all dropins are top balancing) and the procedure for initial charging/ balancing of the cells before building a battery. Whether to use cell balancers (active or passive) in a diy battery.
Dropin batteries need more specific charging regiment for the bms inside the box to balance the many cells and reset the SoC. DIYers you can play more in the voltage range of their liking. Some folks want longevity of their batteries and want to Will them to their next of kin.
While others want the benefits of lfp for daily use at whatever PSoC and not worry about getting to full charge. I'm in this boat. I'm guessing there over 525+ full cycle discharges on my batteries now in the past 4 years if they last another couple in the lifestyle I'm living right now I'll be a happy camper.
Down side to the dropin battery if it takes a **** your sending the entire battery back if it has a warranty were as diy prismatic battery a cell takes a **** just pull that one bad cell out and replace it. I did simplify my answer, there is more to it than one posting without making a novel. ;)