On winterizing, I noticed the cold water valve (part of the three valve array for bypassing the WH) was leaking around the crimp clamp. Since I always use a breakage as a way to upgrade to something far better, what would be some very good valves to replace the three plastic ones with?If I could afford it, I'd go with ProPEX expander valves and fittings, but the tool for that is a bit out of my price range. Instead, I'm thinking of Flair-It fittings, and if they have check valves, going with a single ball valve, and two check valves to make bypassing doable with a single turn. If check valves are not available, I'll just go with the standard two tee valves and one valve for the bypass line.Sharkbites are decent, and they seem to have a decent rep in some instances... but the fact that one O-ring is what separates you from a major disaster gets me leery, and the Flair-Its squeeze against the PEX itself.Any other recommendations? My goal is to get this job done right so I never have to worry about it again.

My recommendation........Install 3 valves.1 cold inlet1 hot outlet1 bypassNO check valves..........they fail and then you have to go back and replaceAs for what to use.Sharkbites/Gatorbites-----I have had NO issues with either Flair-It also workSea Tech/Watts fittings are also very good

This is what Biscuit is referring to.

I have used shark bite several times with no leaks. The main thing I concentrate on is smoothing the cut edge of the pipe so as not to nick the o ring. Picture a smooth radius vs a sharp 90 degree corner. You want the sealing surface area to remain perfectly smooth also. No sandpaper scratches or any little lines in the area that the o rings sits. Cant remember the name but I have also used the type that some rv places sell. Put the nut on the hose, push the pipe onto the fitting then push the nut on and tighten. I have also seen a plastic shark bite type fitting at some hardware stores that is less expensive than shark bite. I would probably trust the sharkbite over the push on/nut type. I also turn off my water pump when I'm not using it. It's not off immediately but we just try to keep it off when done with it. If we are in a park and leaving the rig we would also shut off the city water. Too many horror stories.

I like PEX clamps and as you mention, the tool is expensive and needs calibration. I found cinch clamps and tool for PEX. Less pricey and works extremely well.I would go with a 3 way valve and eliminate 2 of the existing valves. This requires a check valve at the hot water outlet.

Next time I need one I'm going Flair-it. But I don't know if they are any better or not? It would be nice if somebody has a side by side comparison test in the real world. I'm also picky about water pressure, I don't go over 45 psi.

Best fittings for water heater bypass valves? | Good Sam Community

15 Replies

beemerphile1
Explorer
Jan 13, 2015
j-d wrote:
Looked up the CAMCO kit, one of the two Brass Valves is a Check Valve. From my understanding, an RV Hot Water System requires a Check Valve on the HOT side of the Heater. Is that true? If not, somebody please correct me.

My brass two valve Camco kit does not use a check valve. Each valve is a three-way valve.

http://www.camco.net/Products/Item?prodID=10265
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jan 13, 2015
Cool Canuck wrote:
I understand the check valve is there to prevent water migrating back in the to the heater which in turn allows hot water to enter the cold water line. Sort of similar to all the anti siphon devices they have these days.

I'm lazier than Old Biscuit. I'd rather turn one valve to winterize than fuss with 3.

Check valves are not needed.......hot water does not migrate into cold water system when no check valves are used.

RV check valves used are cheap plastic junk that fail.

IF using a check valve at least buy good one--all brass with no plastic internals.
Bobbo
Explorer II
Jan 13, 2015
There is also the 2 valve bypass sytem. If/when my back flow preventer fails, this is the system I will go to.
Cool_Canuck
Explorer
Jan 13, 2015
I understand the check valve is there to prevent water migrating back in the to the heater which in turn allows hot water to enter the cold water line. Sort of similar to all the anti siphon devices they have these days.

I'm lazier than Old Biscuit. I'd rather turn one valve to winterize than fuss with 3.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jan 13, 2015
Check valves are used by mfg. because they are cheap and easy.

I have 3 valve system.........no check valves, because check valves are not needed. They are just used to lower mfg. costs.
j-d
Explorer II
Jan 12, 2015
Looked up the CAMCO kit, one of the two Brass Valves is a Check Valve. From my understanding, an RV Hot Water System requires a Check Valve on the HOT side of the Heater. Is that true? If not, somebody please correct me.
jrnymn7
Explorer
Jan 12, 2015
I used sharkbites on my hydronic heating. No leaks so far.

(Is there an emoticon for crossing ones fingers?)
beemerphile1
Explorer
Jan 12, 2015
Camco 2-valve bypass kit uses brass valves and no check valve.
time2roll
Nomad
Jan 12, 2015
If I replace any RV water fittings I use Sharkbite or Gatorbite.
mlts22
Explorer II
Jan 12, 2015
I could go with a Watts cinch clamp tool, but I am concerned that next time I winterize or de-winterize, the joint will leak again, even with just a little bit of twisting when the valve is opened/closed.

A while back, I saw a Sharkbite type fitting that had two O-rings. Because the water in my RV can get pretty corrosive at times (especially during a sanitizing cycle), having that durability can't hurt. I wish I could find that fitting, since Amazon sells the cutters and de-burring tool needed to do a Sharkbite fitting the right way.