Black Tank Valve

The longer the cable, and the more turns it takes, requires a stout pull, even if the valve is just lightly stuck. The handle will normally turn, but does not mean the cable is free to the valve.

My FW came new, with 3 sided windows cut, in needed service areas. Each has another oversized piece of coroplast screwed over the window.

Jerry

Good chance the cable rusted and jammed but it may be the valve.

I did not have that type of "Remote" valve on my RV but that is a common type of cable.. Like a parking brake cable on a car) (Same thign happens) cables on a multi speed bicycle (Replaced many) and more... They can be lubed but it takes a special tool you get at a motorcycle shop.

campermama wrote:

Has anybody here had to cut open the bottom and insulation to get to the valve? And how do you replace it if it has a cable that runs to the front of the trailer?
I'm at a loss as to what to do!

Most likely you are going to need to get to the valve to repair it. Some folks remove the underbelly, or if they know the exact location of the valve they can cut an opening in the underbelly then tape it back when finished.

The tank and valve should be in close proximity to the valve handle. Drop one side of the underbelly below where the pull cable handle is and you can probably see where the valve is.

When you get access to the valve you MUST make sure you have dumped all it's contents before removing the 4 screws that hold the blade valve together or you will get lots of stuff in your face.

Once you get the valve apart you can observe any problem with the valve, which usually only requires cleaning and lubing. Remove the cable from the valve and see if it moves freely. If the cable is binding inside the outer sheath you probably will have to replace it, but you might get some lube in it.

Also, what do you mean by "turning" the cable handle. You only pull and push it.

Google cable dump valve and watch a video.