Interested in upgrading mine, any feedback on the ones offered would be appreciated. I see they have a power bleeder and my first thought was brake fluid under air pressure around my painted vehicles.

I don't like pressure systems either. Too messy and you know how bad that fluid is for causing corrosion.For simple bleeding chores I just use the two person method.FOr more complicated work, like after replacing all the hard and rubber lines, I have another system that's works fantastic.Start with a Mighty Vac 16oz reservoir link and then buy about 20' of 1/4" vacuum line frm Amazon for a few bucks. Attach the vacuum line to a vac source on the vehicle and on to the reservoir. Attach the reservoir to the fitting and start the engine. Now you can crack the lines and have a strong (but not too strong) source of continuous vacuum to bleed with. Note that the fluid never enters the vac. line to the eng.This method is cheap, extremely controllable and quick.

Not exactly sure what you refer to.. Bleeding the wheel (caliper's) after changing pads, replacing (flush and refill fluid) or just insuring there is no air in the system?I use either a Mityvac vacuum pump with a catch bottle and / or allow gravity to fill the wheel cylinders and do the final pull with the Mityvac.As a rule, your master cylinder will always be higher than your wheels and brake fluid is pretty viscous so it flows readily and fluid always flows downhill.I do a brake fluid flush and refill every few years. Fluid is cheap, even DOT 5.

SidecarFlip wrote:Not exactly sure what you refer to.. Bleeding the wheel (caliper's) after changing pads, replacing (flush and refill fluid) or just insuring there is no air in the system?I use either a Mityvac vacuum pump with a catch bottle and / or allow gravity to fill the wheel cylinders and do the final pull with the Mityvac.As a rule, your master cylinder will always be higher than your wheels and brake fluid is pretty viscous so it flows readily and fluid always flows downhill.I do a brake fluid flush and refill every few years. Fluid is cheap, even DOT 5. Need to change the fluid in my toad. I think the mighty vac is most popular.

This company has Pressure bleeder kits. Remember, the PSI is very low(15psi). I used the specified kit for my 75 Corvette(dual caliper bleeders) and it is a WHOLE LOT EASIER than attempting to use 2 people doing the old style manual bleed. AND you can get all the old fluid out. Doughttps://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits

I was taught it is not a good idea to refill the reservoir as the fluid goes down. The thought being, if you do not have a leak in your fluid system, it can only go down as your pads and/or shoes wear. Not only does the low fluid serve as an indicator your pads and/or shoes need attention, but if you continously top off the reservoir it will overflow when you install new pads and/or shoes. That overflow can sure make a mess on the firewall and fender, as well as eat the paint.Wayne

Brake bleeder suggestions | Good Sam Community

Chum_lee
Explorer
Nov 28, 2017
Reddog1 wrote:
I was taught it is not a good idea to refill the reservoir as the fluid goes down. The thought being, if you do not have a leak in your fluid system, it can only go down as your pads and/or shoes wear. Not only does the low fluid serve as an indicator your pads and/or shoes need attention, but if you continously top off the reservoir it will overflow when you install new pads and/or shoes. That overflow can sure make a mess on the firewall and fender, as well as eat the paint.

Wayne

Yes, that is one way to think about it. I'm a nut about keeping fluid levels full so my mind won't let me do that. In any vehicle, older vehicles especially, they will eventually spring a fluid leak of some kind. The more fluid left in the system, the more time you have to spot/repair the leak. With brakes, this could be a fatal mistake. Brake fluid washes off with water. If you get to it quickly enough, it won't damage painted surfaces. Sucking the remaining old fluid out of the reservoir before replacing shoes/pads isn't a big deal to me. Today, most modern braking systems have pad warning indicators and low fluid indicators, but double/triple redundancy IMHO is a good idea when dealing with brakes.

Chum lee
klutchdust
Explorer II
Dec 04, 2017
klutchdust wrote:
So I decided on and ordered the "Capri tools vacuum brake bleeder, I'll let you know how it goes.

So the Capri brand has a long hose and a rubber boot that fits over the bleeder screw. Applying air pressure to the canister ,it draws the fluid into the ample storage container and done. Well worth the investment.

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