Brakes and Bearing
Just wanted to know if I have the basics, fixing to check the brakes and bearings on my new to me (and 1st) rv (5ver) jack up and place stands in proper location, remove drum and hand pack bearings (b...
Forum Discussion
You have the basics...
I would download the service manual for your axle...BOTH AL-CO and DEXTER have good references on their websites. It's important to correctly identify the axle on your trailer. For example the spindle size on a 3500# trailer axle is the same as a 4,400# axle trailer...but many of the parts, bearing, brake pads, etc...are not interchangeable...they fit but aren't rated for the extra load.
They also have recommendations for axle bearing grease...
Leading up to the job...If you pan on keeping the trailer for any length of time... Order a set of bearing and races for each wheel. I prefer Timken bearing kits. Also order new grease seals...the double lipped ones for use with trailer brakes. Buy some greast....and have a hardy supply of shop rags or paper towels. Yes...brake cleaning fluid is good to have too. You may, as a precaution order some extra cotter pins to fit your axle.
In addition to the tools required to pull the wheel off...it's nice to have a dead blow hammer, hammer, punch, small pry bar, grease packing tool (or you can pack them by hand) Torque wrench. 1 1/2" socket for axle nut ??? your size may be different... Rubber mallet.
I pull the wheel...knock the hub cap off skew gently with the rubber mallet...turn the hub and use a screwdriver to drive the hub cap off... Pull the cotter pin. Remove the axle nut, washer... outer bearing cone... wheel hub... lay it face down. Use the punch to deform the grease seal on the back. When it's deformed enough to loosen a small prybar will remove it. Dispose of the old grease seal. Remove the inner bearing cone.
Now wipe out all the junk inside the hub. Inspect the races. If they're in good condition I would wait to replace them on condition in the future. Otherwise your going to have to seat new races. When the races are completes. Give them a good coat of fresh grease. Pack your new bearing as desired. Place the inner bearing cone in the back of the hub. Place a new grease seal on the hub and drive into flush with a bearing seal driver and dead blow hammer...a block of 2x4 works too... Before replacing the hub...inspect the brakes. I believe you want at least 1/16" or more pad...check you specifications.... also check the brake magnet for wear. You can use brake cleaner to clean the brakes, and inside of the wheel hub. If needed replace brake assemblies or worn pads, and magnets on condition. Torque specs for assembly bolts are in your service manual... 32 - 50 ft/lbs for my axle... When happy with brakes... clean your spindle good...and I like to wipe a nice even thin coat of grease on the spindle. Replace the wheel hub... Insert freshly packed outer cone...washer....nut... Depeding on manufacturer. They say torque the nut to 20 ft/lbs...another says 50 ft/lbs... while turning hub. The idea is to make sure the races where fully seated. Then loosen the nut...retighten by hand...or to 7 ft/lbs...then back out just enough to align the cotter pin hole with the castle nut. Insert cotter pin, bend tangs... Replace hub cab... Now, remove the adjuster covers on the back of the brake assembly. I use a small flashlight and screwdriver. Tighten the brake ajuster until it binds the hub. Then back off until you can spin the hub and get 3/4 - 1 revolution before it stops. Replace the covers... Reinstall you wheel... and torque it down in 3 stages...using a star pattern.
The manufacturers service manual will direct you to re-torque the lug nuts at a prescribed interval. Also there is a burning procedure recommended for new brake pads...and a re-adjustment schedule for the brake adjuster.
If you decide to replace brake assemblies...it sometime takes liquid wrench, and a propane torch to get those nuts loose. Also, you'll probably need some wire connectors. I use the heat shrink style butt connectors. They make a water proof connection for the brake magnet wires...
I just finished doing mine today. I did three wheels yesterday...and the last on today. I keep the bearing...and at a later time, I'll soak them in cleaner, and repack them with grease...stick them in a cool whip container for the next time. I replaced two of the four brake assemblies... I could have gotten more wear out of them...but I was opting to stagger the installation....so I'm never forced to swap out all 4 at once. It's a time consuming project....so I'd rather just do one axle at a time.
I'm sure there are tons of others out there with more experience than I... We're always here to help out.
Enjoy your new 5th wheel...
I would download the service manual for your axle...BOTH AL-CO and DEXTER have good references on their websites. It's important to correctly identify the axle on your trailer. For example the spindle size on a 3500# trailer axle is the same as a 4,400# axle trailer...but many of the parts, bearing, brake pads, etc...are not interchangeable...they fit but aren't rated for the extra load.
They also have recommendations for axle bearing grease...
Leading up to the job...If you pan on keeping the trailer for any length of time... Order a set of bearing and races for each wheel. I prefer Timken bearing kits. Also order new grease seals...the double lipped ones for use with trailer brakes. Buy some greast....and have a hardy supply of shop rags or paper towels. Yes...brake cleaning fluid is good to have too. You may, as a precaution order some extra cotter pins to fit your axle.
In addition to the tools required to pull the wheel off...it's nice to have a dead blow hammer, hammer, punch, small pry bar, grease packing tool (or you can pack them by hand) Torque wrench. 1 1/2" socket for axle nut ??? your size may be different... Rubber mallet.
I pull the wheel...knock the hub cap off skew gently with the rubber mallet...turn the hub and use a screwdriver to drive the hub cap off... Pull the cotter pin. Remove the axle nut, washer... outer bearing cone... wheel hub... lay it face down. Use the punch to deform the grease seal on the back. When it's deformed enough to loosen a small prybar will remove it. Dispose of the old grease seal. Remove the inner bearing cone.
Now wipe out all the junk inside the hub. Inspect the races. If they're in good condition I would wait to replace them on condition in the future. Otherwise your going to have to seat new races. When the races are completes. Give them a good coat of fresh grease. Pack your new bearing as desired. Place the inner bearing cone in the back of the hub. Place a new grease seal on the hub and drive into flush with a bearing seal driver and dead blow hammer...a block of 2x4 works too... Before replacing the hub...inspect the brakes. I believe you want at least 1/16" or more pad...check you specifications.... also check the brake magnet for wear. You can use brake cleaner to clean the brakes, and inside of the wheel hub. If needed replace brake assemblies or worn pads, and magnets on condition. Torque specs for assembly bolts are in your service manual... 32 - 50 ft/lbs for my axle... When happy with brakes... clean your spindle good...and I like to wipe a nice even thin coat of grease on the spindle. Replace the wheel hub... Insert freshly packed outer cone...washer....nut... Depeding on manufacturer. They say torque the nut to 20 ft/lbs...another says 50 ft/lbs... while turning hub. The idea is to make sure the races where fully seated. Then loosen the nut...retighten by hand...or to 7 ft/lbs...then back out just enough to align the cotter pin hole with the castle nut. Insert cotter pin, bend tangs... Replace hub cab... Now, remove the adjuster covers on the back of the brake assembly. I use a small flashlight and screwdriver. Tighten the brake ajuster until it binds the hub. Then back off until you can spin the hub and get 3/4 - 1 revolution before it stops. Replace the covers... Reinstall you wheel... and torque it down in 3 stages...using a star pattern.
The manufacturers service manual will direct you to re-torque the lug nuts at a prescribed interval. Also there is a burning procedure recommended for new brake pads...and a re-adjustment schedule for the brake adjuster.
If you decide to replace brake assemblies...it sometime takes liquid wrench, and a propane torch to get those nuts loose. Also, you'll probably need some wire connectors. I use the heat shrink style butt connectors. They make a water proof connection for the brake magnet wires...
I just finished doing mine today. I did three wheels yesterday...and the last on today. I keep the bearing...and at a later time, I'll soak them in cleaner, and repack them with grease...stick them in a cool whip container for the next time. I replaced two of the four brake assemblies... I could have gotten more wear out of them...but I was opting to stagger the installation....so I'm never forced to swap out all 4 at once. It's a time consuming project....so I'd rather just do one axle at a time.
I'm sure there are tons of others out there with more experience than I... We're always here to help out.
Enjoy your new 5th wheel...
