garyemunson
Good point. I dont want to get too far off track here but I have had the basic strategy with my last 2 rv that they should be self sufficient and not put a demand on my tv. My resi frig pulls about 6.x amps so why put that load on my alternator? My inverter pulls 1/2 an amp so I'm at 7.6 to 8 amps when frig kicks on.
After pulling a rental trailer one time which had a short in the wiring with my 2012 Chevy Traverse it blew out a tail light bulb and set a code. It wouldn't shut off unless I pulled the battery cable off! It was a lease so I just took it to the dealer but it took 4 days for them to find the problem. They had replaced the body module, ecm and checked all sorts of stuff. When the tech was putting it on the hoist another tech mentioned to him that it had a brake light out. That bulb looked like it exploded and melted and that was the problem. The simple days of blowing a fuse are over.
If I could get away with my 2014 Ram not even being electrically connected to my rv I'd be happy. Todays vehicles = space ship, rv = death virus. :)