Bypassing transfer switch

Here is a picture of my burned transfer switch

Often there is two dpdt relays on a 50a so one connection is unused. Could move all to the other relay with 30a using a 50a switch. But it sounds like the control circuit is fried.

Superior IMO 50a uses two contactors with 3 poles each.

j-d wrote:
Which is what I was thinking. Just odd that an OEM would furnish a bigger switch than the application called for.
Got me a-wondering... is the other leg of the 50A switch undamaged, might serve as temporary till switch replaced...

I would be afraid of this because the neutral is common between the two sides. If the neutral switch is damaged, you could be asking for trouble.

Which is what I was thinking. Just odd that an OEM would furnish a bigger switch than the application called for.
Got me a-wondering... is the other leg of the 50A switch undamaged, might serve as temporary till switch replaced...

Yes a 50a can be used in place of a 30. The switch coil runs on 120v either way.

j-d wrote:
The case is a little odd. He specified a transfer switch that's 50A-capable in another thread, and confirmed that the 50A model is the one he has. But it's a Class C, almost always 30A, and his wiring explanation confirms it's being used in a 30A application.

Can a 50-amp switch be "wired" for a 30-amp application as well? Maybe this is a one-size-fits 2 switch. I obviously don't know anything about transfer switches but maybe that explains it.

The case is a little odd. He specified a transfer switch that's 50A-capable in another thread, and confirmed that the 50A model is the one he has. But it's a Class C, almost always 30A, and his wiring explanation confirms it's being used in a 30A application.

smkettner wrote:
Yes that sounds like you will be fine. If the box is metal, the ground connection to the box should remain but probably not a big deal. Possibly the ground should also remain connected to the generator but it probably has its' own ground and will not be used anyway.

Sounds like just 30a connection so no red wires. I assume you used wire nuts to connect the copper.

I did not connect or disconnect any ground wires except the bare copper ground wires inside the cords. I used wire nuts to also secure the ground wires to each other. I will make sure to check them often for loose connections etc. Thanks for all your help to everyone who responded.

Yes that sounds like you will be fine. If the box is metal, the ground connection to the box should remain but probably not a big deal. Possibly the ground should also remain connected to the generator but it probably has its' own ground and will not be used anyway.

Sounds like just 30a connection so no red wires. I assume you used wire nuts to connect the copper.

Depending on where these wires are located, there could be a lot of vibration there, so you'd be wise to check, after driving, that your wire nuts are still tight. A loose connection WILL become HOT shortly.