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therink's avatar
therink
Explorer
Jul 15, 2013

Cable operated black tank valve won't close all the way

My fifth wheel is only 4 mo old and it is still under warranty. I prefer to fix things like this myself. It isn't worth trip to dealer as I can fix it. After draining and flushing thoroughly today, I could not get black tank cable operated valve to completely close (about 1/2" of cable movement left) so it now drips. I am real anal about flushing at least 3 times every dump so lack of tank maintenance is not the problem.
I removed access panel on chloroplast belly and have the valve exposed. Before I remove the valve to check and clean the valve, is there anything else I should try first.
I am thinking of attaching garden hose to 3"outlet cover (I have one with male hose fitting), and try flushing up into the tank thinking I may be able to dislodge debris stuck in valve or valve seat.
Is there a set screw and cable adjustment at the valve that maybe needs adjusting?
Up until now, the valve has worked well.
Steve

5 Replies

  • Had a similar problem off and on for years and would either take the valves apart or replace them and they'd work for awhile and then get real stiff and hard to operate,not seal properly and eventually fail. I'd been using either Vasoline, or plumber's grease on the seals as recommended by the rep at Thetford. Found out both of these products are petroleum based and will swell rubber seals. I then realized that I was having similar problems with faucet seals and other similar rubberized things I was applying these lubricants to. I was told by a plumbing supply store to use silicone grease instead because it's a non petroleum product and will not affect rubberized seals. I thought back about my college chemistry classes where we were told that " like will dissolve like". For example, water based paint needs water for cleanup and not paint thinner. Maybe not a good example but I think you get the idea.

    So, I recently had to replace both dump valve seals again and this time used silicone grease as a lubricant instead. This stuff is kind of hard to find and a little pricey but you don't need to use much. Haven't had a chance to take the rv out yet so I can't report the results. Also, I really never had any problems with the cables hanging up or anything
  • I never have liked cable dump valves. Easy fix is to change over to electric dump valves.
  • naturist wrote:
    I had mine stick to, a while back. IT turned out to be the round cutout piece from to they installed the toilet and just let if fall into thestraight My thorough flushing had gotten it moving and it hung up in the valve. It was no big deal to reach in with one of those automotive grabber things from the open exit tube and pull it out.


    I would love to try that but my 3" drain line is about 4' long then it takes a 90 degree turn to the right then several inches to the valve. Is your valve a straight shot from the opening?
  • I had mine stick to, a while back. IT turned out to be the round cutout piece from where they installed the toilet and just let if fall into the tank. My thorough flushing had gotten it moving and it hung up in the valve. It was no big deal to reach in with one of those automotive grabber things from the open exit tube and pull it out.
  • on mine cable driven there,s an adjustment. also might try some silcone spray on cable. mines easy to and work on.

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