Can I jump fridge gas valve for TS purposes?
Fridge in the "new-to-me" camper is a Dometic RM3604 3 way. I was unable to check the function of any of the appliances before purchase of the camper, so I do not know when it was last operational. ...
Forum Discussion
On mine you have to unscrew the Power Supply (the board) from the back of the fridge, take the cover off, then pry the board out of its "tray" to see the components.
The 120v fuse is by the bottom side terminals where the 120v cord goes on.
The DC fuse is at the other end (the higher end when all installed)
DC voltage drop on mine was big. I have the long wire from battery to the terminal block behind the fridge, losing 0.5v at 9 amps.
But then the 12v supply wires go to the side terminals of the board, through the board to the output 12v terminals at the side of the board . You get another half volt or so loss there. But the spec on mine says DC can be from 15.4 to 10v, so "low" can still work.
IM not expert O , since you are getting ignition and can hear the solenoid, your board is ok, and you just need gas from the orifice or to unblock the burner where soot may be in the slots.
You might have the 120v fuse blown on the board, but first confirm you have 120 at the receptacle the cord goes to. If that is dead, try an extension cord from a known live receptacle. You can also check the cord itself by plugging into a good source and meter the end that goes on the board. If fridge then works on 120, you can solve the receptacle problem.
The 120v fuse is by the bottom side terminals where the 120v cord goes on.
The DC fuse is at the other end (the higher end when all installed)
DC voltage drop on mine was big. I have the long wire from battery to the terminal block behind the fridge, losing 0.5v at 9 amps.
But then the 12v supply wires go to the side terminals of the board, through the board to the output 12v terminals at the side of the board . You get another half volt or so loss there. But the spec on mine says DC can be from 15.4 to 10v, so "low" can still work.
IM not expert O , since you are getting ignition and can hear the solenoid, your board is ok, and you just need gas from the orifice or to unblock the burner where soot may be in the slots.
You might have the 120v fuse blown on the board, but first confirm you have 120 at the receptacle the cord goes to. If that is dead, try an extension cord from a known live receptacle. You can also check the cord itself by plugging into a good source and meter the end that goes on the board. If fridge then works on 120, you can solve the receptacle problem.
