Can I JUST replace the tank?

Must be nice to be smarter than a company in business for over 40 years. The plain fact is, you are supposed to regularly flush out ANY RV water heater. Same goes for residential water heaters.
Do that on both Suburban and Atwood and you will not have any problems. Doug

Lantley wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
Atwood water heater tanks are constructed of a high strength aluminum.
The interior of the tank consists of a .0015 thickness of type 7072
aluminum (pure aluminum and zinc) that is fused to the core during the
rolling process. This material protects the tanks from the effects of heavy
metals and salts found in waters throughout the country. It is anodic to
these heavy metals and acts much like an anode in a steel glass lined
tank except it will last much longer. Aftermarket Anode Rods are not
required and should not be used and will void warranty

I'm curious, As an RV tech what is your take on replacing just the tank and swapping in the controls vs. replacing the entire unit?

Doing the work yourself, I would replace the Inner tank. Paying someone else, it is NOT cost efficient to replace the inner tank. One exception is the EXT series Atwood. The mixing valve adds a lot of cost to the replacement water heater that would not have by just replacing the tank. 10 years old. IF mine I would replace the complete water Heater if NOT an EXT. BUT, since the original problem appears Calcium/mineral failure related, the most common cause of failure on an EXT is a Failed Mixing valve caused by those Mineral deposits clogging the valve and preventing correct Hot and Cold mixture, usually NO hot water at all. BTW, 30 years ago I replaced a Atwood less than 1 year old due to corrosion from Minerals. The customer spent 8 months in the Rio Grand Valley and the CG water was very high in minerals and such. Doug

dougrainer wrote:
Atwood water heater tanks are constructed of a high strength aluminum.
The interior of the tank consists of a .0015 thickness of type 7072
aluminum (pure aluminum and zinc) that is fused to the core during the
rolling process. This material protects the tanks from the effects of heavy
metals and salts found in waters throughout the country. It is anodic to
these heavy metals and acts much like an anode in a steel glass lined
tank except it will last much longer. Aftermarket Anode Rods are not
required and should not be used and will void warranty

I know what the tanks are made of, and I know what Atwood’s recommendation is regarding anode rods. I disagree with them, and basic science is on my side. If an anode is used that is more anodic than the aluminum tank, the rod will deteriorate rather than the tank. That’s an indisputable fact. Also, Atwood cannot, and will not void your warranty for simply USING an anode rod or any other non-OEM part on their water heaters. They can and will refuse to warranty any damage CAUSED by non-OEM parts. So, If you choose to use an anode in an Atwood water heater, don’t screw up the threads in the process. Atwood’s water heater manual also states that the tanks CAN develop pin hole leaks due to the lining deteriorating, and in some cases it can happen quite rapidly.

If Atwood would warranty replace the OP’s 10 year old water heater because the tank deteriorated I’d feel differently. But they won’t, the warranty is gone.

I’d rather have a sacrificial anode rod than a sacrificial water tank.

:):)

dougrainer wrote:
Atwood water heater tanks are constructed of a high strength aluminum.
The interior of the tank consists of a .0015 thickness of type 7072
aluminum (pure aluminum and zinc) that is fused to the core during the
rolling process. This material protects the tanks from the effects of heavy
metals and salts found in waters throughout the country. It is anodic to
these heavy metals and acts much like an anode in a steel glass lined
tank except it will last much longer. Aftermarket Anode Rods are not
required and should not be used and will void warranty

I'm curious, As an RV tech what is your take on replacing just the tank and swapping in the controls vs. replacing the entire unit?

Atwood water heater tanks are constructed of a high strength aluminum.
The interior of the tank consists of a .0015 thickness of type 7072
aluminum (pure aluminum and zinc) that is fused to the core during the
rolling process. This material protects the tanks from the effects of heavy
metals and salts found in waters throughout the country. It is anodic to
these heavy metals and acts much like an anode in a steel glass lined
tank except it will last much longer. Aftermarket Anode Rods are not
required and should not be used and will void warranty

You must have water that’s highly corrosive to aluminum. My WH is twice that age.

I think if I were you I’d ignore the “You don’t need an anode in an Atwood WH” and use an anode in your new tank. Anodes are used in every other aluminum tank, vessel, and structure exposed to water that I’m familiar with.

:):)

DrewE wrote:

Lantley wrote:

This is wear you are applying a bit of false economy. You are taking out 10 year old parts and putting them back in vs. using new parts. The value of the parts is negligible it the labor portion that is the deal breaker. I understand you are not paying for labor but the parts are not likely to last 10 years which will leave you back at square 1 with a broken heater.
Sure it would be nice if the entire thing failed at the same time, however it doesn't work that way. You are better off hitting the reset button and starting over with a brand new heater vs. a new tank with old parts. You are just kicking the can down the road.
The money and labor you save today will be spent tomorrow!

I'm curious why you think the other parts would not last ten years (or at least a decently long time) longer. Plenty of 20 year old RV water heaters are still heating water very nicely with many original parts. I have a 20 year old Atwood in my motorhome, for just one example, and it has not given me a lick of trouble--and I think the previous owner only had to replace a thermostat or some other relatively minor part.

Clearly a lot would have to do with the general condition of the rest of the unit, and I think the poster who's contemplating the work would be in a better position to gauge that than I would be using mental telepathy or whatever. Likewise, they'd also have a better idea of how much or little they value their time vs. their cash. Some people have much more of one than the other at their disposal, and that can make choices that are sensible in one case less desirable in another.

Once you have removed the 10 year old parts. Why put them back in?
The tank in the OP's case has already failed. I'm not suggesting taking out a working 10 year old heater. But I am saying once its out don't put it back in. Once it's out take advantage of the situation and replace it all. Don't just replace some of it. It's the taking it in and out that's the pain.

Lantley wrote:

This is wear you are applying a bit of false economy. You are taking out 10 year old parts and putting them back in vs. using new parts. The value of the parts is negligible it the labor portion that is the deal breaker. I understand you are not paying for labor but the parts are not likely to last 10 years which will leave you back at square 1 with a broken heater.
Sure it would be nice if the entire thing failed at the same time, however it doesn't work that way. You are better off hitting the reset button and starting over with a brand new heater vs. a new tank with old parts. You are just kicking the can down the road.
The money and labor you save today will be spent tomorrow!

I'm curious why you think the other parts would not last ten years (or at least a decently long time) longer. Plenty of 20 year old RV water heaters are still heating water very nicely with many original parts. I have a 20 year old Atwood in my motorhome, for just one example, and it has not given me a lick of trouble--and I think the previous owner only had to replace a thermostat or some other relatively minor part.

Clearly a lot would have to do with the general condition of the rest of the unit, and I think the poster who's contemplating the work would be in a better position to gauge that than I would be using mental telepathy or whatever. Likewise, they'd also have a better idea of how much or little they value their time vs. their cash. Some people have much more of one than the other at their disposal, and that can make choices that are sensible in one case less desirable in another.

L&MMusic wrote:

Lantley wrote:

L&MMusic wrote:
Thanks for your input. I called Atwood before I saw some of your replies and she gave me the correct part number Atwood 91060 and suggested I look on the Internet for pricing options. You were right there, too. Prices varied quite a bit!
We went with BoatnRV Supplies out of Ohio for $204 plus shipping ground UPS for $21.

I can only see replacing the tank being worthwhile if your labor time has zero value or you simply don't have the funds to buy the complete package. Or your possibly selling the RV.
Otherwise a new tank with 10 year old parts is a liability.

My labor time is worth what I'm not paying an RV tech to do $$. :D My labor time (with the supervision of an RV tech with a blow torch) is still worth it to me get the job done faster and learn along the way.This RV is our full-time home and we have no plans to sell it. I don't expect anyone else would give us enough for it to qualify for a new one, so no. And we're traveling musicians. You can probably guess the answer to the funds question. While we love what we do for our living, it pays to be frugal when we can.

This is wear you are applying a bit of false economy. You are taking out 10 year old parts and putting them back in vs. using new parts. The value of the parts is negligible it the labor portion that is the deal breaker. I understand you are not paying for labor but the parts are not likely to last 10 years which will leave you back at square 1 with a broken heater.
Sure it would be nice if the entire thing failed at the same time, however it doesn't work that way. You are better off hitting the reset button and starting over with a brand new heater vs. a new tank with old parts. You are just kicking the can down the road.
The money and labor you save today will be spent tomorrow!

L&MMusic wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:
First: Can I just replace the Tank: YES
Can someone point me in the right directrion: AMAZON

The new tank comes with a 1500 watt element, and all the devices you need to attach save tools.

First Turn off, then EMPTY TANK, Disconnect plumbing and 120 volt wire (tape off) (NOTE you may be better off disconnecting wire after pulling the assembley

Once you have it on the "Bench" (AKA picnic table) remove everythign from the OUTSIDE that extends in (TPR Valve and any screws that are in the tank or the path the hot air flows when on Propane. NOTE there is a hidden screw under hte exhaust baffles.

Cut the two rings and remove the tank,

To re-assemble you will need to heat the new rings (included) with a torch and hammer on.. Not an easy task.

Beyond that refer to your manual.

One "EDIT" I performed was to swap the 120 volt element for a 1500 watt 240 volt element from Lowe's (or Home Depot or Joe's hardware or _____) Water heater now pulls less than 400 watts (About 375) Takes longer to get hot but.. Well it still gets hot

When re-assembling make sure T-Stats touch tank.

Thanks for the details! Much appreciated. I've heard it's a half-hour job. Does that sound right to you?

Are you referring to just swapping elements or swapping tanks?
Swapping just a tank will take a lot longer than 30 minutes, especially for a novice.