Can I run my WFCO output to a REDARC BCDC?
My 2019 Brookstone 395RL currently has a: WFCO WF-9875 75 AMP POWER DECKMOUNT CONVERTER - 55-4708 I'm in the process of adding a REDARC BCDC1240D... and running #2 AWG from my 2019 F-350 DRW's batt...
Forum Discussion
I went with the 25 amp model simply because I’m a tightwad. I had a hard enough time swallowing the $370 price for it, and the 40 amp model is about $60 more.
Redarc’s install instructions recommend a minimum of 6 AWG wire for distances of 16-30 ft. I used 4 gauge on mine, the cost difference was negligible and if you use fine strand welding cable it’s very easy to work with.
On a crew cab pickup, you might be surprised how quickly you can use up 25’ of wire when you start running it from the truck batteries, through an appropriate isolator and fuse or CB, along the frame rail making sure you are avoiding/mitigating heat, pinching, chaffing, etc, to a connector in the very front of the bed, through the camper umbilical, to wherever you are going to mount the Redarc. If you ran the wires to the rear of the bed, you’d be well over 30 ft.
I installed the Redarc after experiencing how pi$$poor these new trucks auxiliary battery charging capabilities are, despite having a “super heavy duty alternator”. I was running my fridge from an inverter while driving, and the truck just wasn’t keeping up with the draw from the fridge. I was arriving at my destination in the evening with the camper battery at 75-80%. The Redarc solved that problem, but what I’ve also learned is that the DC mode on my fridge now works well enough that I don’t need to run it from the inverter. The Redarc is keeping the camper battery voltage much higher than before, so the 12 volt heater in the fridge works noticeably better. The 25 amp Redarc has plenty of capacity available to run the fridge even at its lowest temperature setting (100% duty cycle) and still charge the camper battery. I now arrive at camp with ice cold beer, frozen hard ice cream, and a camper battery that is about as close to fully charged as a battery in use can be.
That’s what I call a good return on investment :B
:):)
Redarc’s install instructions recommend a minimum of 6 AWG wire for distances of 16-30 ft. I used 4 gauge on mine, the cost difference was negligible and if you use fine strand welding cable it’s very easy to work with.
On a crew cab pickup, you might be surprised how quickly you can use up 25’ of wire when you start running it from the truck batteries, through an appropriate isolator and fuse or CB, along the frame rail making sure you are avoiding/mitigating heat, pinching, chaffing, etc, to a connector in the very front of the bed, through the camper umbilical, to wherever you are going to mount the Redarc. If you ran the wires to the rear of the bed, you’d be well over 30 ft.
I installed the Redarc after experiencing how pi$$poor these new trucks auxiliary battery charging capabilities are, despite having a “super heavy duty alternator”. I was running my fridge from an inverter while driving, and the truck just wasn’t keeping up with the draw from the fridge. I was arriving at my destination in the evening with the camper battery at 75-80%. The Redarc solved that problem, but what I’ve also learned is that the DC mode on my fridge now works well enough that I don’t need to run it from the inverter. The Redarc is keeping the camper battery voltage much higher than before, so the 12 volt heater in the fridge works noticeably better. The 25 amp Redarc has plenty of capacity available to run the fridge even at its lowest temperature setting (100% duty cycle) and still charge the camper battery. I now arrive at camp with ice cold beer, frozen hard ice cream, and a camper battery that is about as close to fully charged as a battery in use can be.
That’s what I call a good return on investment :B
:):)
