profdant139 wrote:
OK, thanks to JayW's "how to" photos, here are the readings -- 119 at the outlet. 119 with the heavy extension cord plugged in (more on that in a moment). 119 with the hockey puck plugged in. 119 with the 30 amp cord plugged in. And yes, I wore heavy neoprene gloves while testing the voltage, which is probably overkill.
But here is the kicker -- the heavy extension cord has a faint notation on the exterior sheath -- "12 AWG." This sounds like a 12 gauge cord, not a 10 gauge. So I may just treat myself to a heavier cord and a new dogbone, if I can find one with the right specs. (I am not competent to roll my own.)
If these voltage measurements are all the same, does that mean that the problem is not voltage drop but something else? Maybe too much resistance due to the inadequate gauge? Or does too much resistance manifest itself as voltage drop?
And if I get a thicker cable, is that an Ohm Improvement? (Sorry -- I couldn't resist.)
I don't know why people will NOT check the simplest most obvious thing after being advised to do that. CHECK THE 120 WIRING CONNECTIONS AT THE ROOF AC AND THE RV BREAKER BOX. PERIOD Doug
PS, you are getting 37 years of RV technician advice here and I am STILL a Technician. You can have 119 volts and STILL, bad/ burnt/ corroded wire nuts/loose connections causing your problem. The fact is, you are having a LOSS of 120 power to the roof AC unit and you are fixated on the extension cords and adapters. THEY will NOT cause a LOSS of power for a minute and then it is restored.
