Jacksons wrote:
Gdetrailer wrote:
Strabo wrote:
Just cause you can run your ac from a 20 amp circut using extension cords dosent mean you should.
Especially in hot ambient outside temps.
How so?
A 13.5K BTU A/C should be drawing not much more than 12.5A-13.5A full tilt when compressor is HOT.
This IS within the "limits" of a 14 ga 15A circuit.
OP is saying they have a 20A circuit so they should have 12 ga wire running to the garage outlet..
OP HAS MEASURED 119V with the A/C ON..
That IS well within operating parameters for voltage..
And by the way, for your information I have NO PROBLEM operating TWO A/C units in my TT on a 20A circuit.. AND that IS with 50ft of 10 gauge wire PLUS an additional 60ft of 12 ga wire plus the wire from the basement outlet to the breaker panel which I do not know since I use that only at my Cousins house..
I have a 10K BTU A/C unit in the rear of my trailer and a 6.5K A/C unit in the front bedroom..
That is 16.5K BTU and I CAN operate it from 20A circuit as long as my batteries are pretty well charged..
I HAVE run my A/C units AND the converter from my 3.5K portable gen which gives me 25A to work with..
OP (or anyone else) SHOULD NOT have any problems running their 13.5K A/C from a 20A circuit..
nowhere did the op say the A/C was on when measured
OPs first post said..
"The a/c starts ok, and runs for a minute or so, quits, starts again, and quits. "Later on about 7 pages down the OP posted this..
"OK, thanks to JayW's "how to" photos, here are the readings -- 119 at the outlet. 119 with the heavy extension cord plugged in (more on that in a moment). 119 with the hockey puck plugged in. 119 with the 30 amp cord plugged in. And yes, I wore heavy neoprene gloves while testing the voltage, which is probably overkill.
But here is the kicker -- the heavy extension cord has a faint notation on the exterior sheath -- "12 AWG." This sounds like a 12 gauge cord, not a 10 gauge. So I may just treat myself to a heavier cord and a new dogbone, if I can find one with the right specs. (I am not competent to roll my own.)
If these voltage measurements are all the same, does that mean that the problem is not voltage drop but something else? Maybe too much resistance due to the inadequate gauge? Or does too much resistance manifest itself as voltage drop?
And if I get a thicker cable, is that an Ohm Improvement? (Sorry -- I couldn't resist.)"
While the OP did not specifically state the A/C was running while taking that voltage reading it REALLY does not matter.
In the grand scheme of things for a 20A circuit you are ALLOWED well over 100 ft of 12 ga wire before you drop 5% of the voltage..
5% of 119 is 5.95V loss or final voltage of 113.5V which IS well within reasonable operating parameters. No damage or harm will happen at 113.5V..
So either way, there is no reason as to why you cannot operate a RV A/C on a 20A circuit.
I suspect the OP may have a problem WITH the A/C unit OR wiring in the trailer, since it works for a minute then quits then starts back up..
I would first check the BREAKER BOX in the RV for loose connections, it is well known that the terminations in the breaker panels do often come loose and should be periodically checked for looseness..
Failure to check the terminals periodically can result in overheating the wire and connections in the breaker panel and possible melting the insulation..
