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profdant139's avatar
profdant139
Explorer II
May 22, 2019

Capping off a propane line: need tips and tricks!

After great effort, I just now found my very slow propane leak (and I will soon prepare a fascinating ;) report on the many things I learned while trying to find it). Bottom line – the leak is at the point that the external barbecue fixture connects to the propane system.

What I want to do is remove the barbecue fixture – we never use it. And I want to cap off the stub or nipple that "tees into" the propane line. The pipe is galvanized. It appears to have an ordinary pipe thread -- not a flared brass gas fitting.

I am planning to unscrew the existing reducing bushing (I think that is what it is called) and replace it with a galvanized cap. I will use teflon gas tape at that joint.

My real question is this: I don't want to put any stress on the other galvanized propane lines underneath the trailer. I will hold back on the galvanized nipple with a pipe wrench while unscrewing the existing reducing bushing. The bushing is very rusty -- I anticipate having to use a lot of force to unscrew it. I'm planning to spray it with WD-40 a day or so before unscrewing it, to try to loosen the threads.

Does this sound like the right approach? I am not a plumbing or propane expert, as you can tell.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!!

20 Replies

  • Galvanized pipe is not used for propane or natural gas service. Use black iron cap and use a gas rated pipe dope like Rector Seal for the best results. Teflon tape is very difficult to use and insure that you have no minuscule leaks. That is -unless you over tighten the fittings as is very common.
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    There is a different dope for gas threads (I think it is yellow in color) and they generally use "Black Iron" pipe.. any hardware. ANY hardware department. Just take the old fitting in so you have the right size.
  • MrWizard wrote:
    i prefer 'Kroil' or 'PB blaster' much better penetration, bushing will come out easier



    I agree "PB Blaster" (My preference) is XXX times better than WD40. Best to let the PB Blaster work for a day or two reapplying as necessary to keep fitting wet. It takes time for the PB Blaster to really be effective so it's not a quick one step process.

    Larry
  • i agree with the pipe dope on a capped line

    tape can sometimes be a PITA to use
  • profdant139 wrote:
    I'm planning to spray it with WD-40 a day or so before unscrewing it, to try to loosen the threads.

    Contrary to popular belief, WD40 is not a penetrating lubricant! Get some PB Blaster. Best stuff on the face of the planet for what you are doing.

    On a related note, personally, I prefer pipe dope to PTFE tape.
  • i prefer 'Kroil' or 'PB blaster' much better penetration, bushing will come out easier

    I would use a Brass cap, and Yellow Teflon tape is for Gasses, white Teflon is for liquids
  • YEP....
    Always use 2 wrenches
    1 to HOLD existing pipe and 1 to use to remove other pipe/nipple etc

    Pipe dope the threads (yellow tape will work....several wraps)
  • Should be black iron, not galvanized, but other than that, it’ll be fine.
  • That’s how I would do it. Use pipe dope on the threads. Turn off gas first