Carbon monoxide alarms fuse and batteries?

path1 wrote:
Op here...

IAMICHABOD ...Thanks, I'll try it. Appears it will work. Product details says..."Product not available for sale in the state of California". Hope the reason is because of what product is made of and not another reason.

Yes I saw that on the Home Depot ad,:h They are on the shelf in my store. Maybe an old ad with the prop 65 warning.

I bought all of mine on Amazon. I also have them in my house. Shipped to me no problem,I got them at a lower price and I also got my points......:B

path1 wrote:

2. Anybody know of any alarm that work off from their own battery (9volt, AA, etc) instead of 12 volt?

Plenty.

Only propane detector is always wired to 12V. Smoke and CO exist in either wired or 9V/AA models.

Dial 9V CO alarm in google or Amazon. Kidde brand seems to be popular, though I would rather have a separate Kidde CO and some separate for smoke. CO - near bed, smoke - on the ceiling.

My smoke is on 9V, and CO is 2AA.

My WAG would be that all of the alarms are powered through one fuse. You could prove this by pulling the fuse for the alarms and see if you have power present at the CO detector location.

The reference to a 1 amp fuse is in the installation instructions as a recommendation. In another sentence the Mfg of the detector states a 6 amp fuse would be maximum.

Op here...

IAMICHABOD ...Thanks, I'll try it. Appears it will work. Product details says..."Product not available for sale in the state of California". Hope the reason is because of what product is made of and not another reason.

ScottG ... (Why look for the fuse) Last week I got new house batteries because I forgot to disconnect the house batteries when we headed south for 7 months. Came back had to buy new batteries and for some reason couldn't get power to converter. After a lot of looking around and asking, westend made the comment "loose or corroded connection in the mix". His comment really helped me locate problem. Don't ever want to go through that again. So I thought it would be good idea to know where this fuse is located if I ever needed to. I missed your posts, you didn't post for long time. Thought maybe you fell of the earth.

Just curious, why do you want to get to the fuse?

What is needed is a dual chamber detector that will detect CO and smoke from a slow smoldering fire such as may start in a R/V because of electrical fires and fast burning smokeless fires.

After a lot of research and talking to Kidde, they assured me that this one would work in a home and also A RV,there is no difference.

This is what I found.
A Kidde KN-COSM-XTR-BA Nighthawk
That seemed to be best suited for this kind of application.

Like This

They now can be bought at Home Depot, also At Amazon.

Home Depot

Amazon

I suggest you read all the info and make your decision on this but I replaced the ones in my Class C with this one.They are rated for 10 years
and most are only rated for 5,If your RV is older than 5 years old and they haven't been changed they are most likely no good. Mine needed to be replaced so this was a good deal for me, I had a hard wired one and I chucked it for the battery powered ones, they can be checked before each trip by pushing the test button in the center of the unit.