Forum Discussion
BFL13
Oct 08, 2018Explorer II
I expected it to run my 75 amper, based on the Kill-A-Watt with the 75 amper and my Honda 3000.
( I might have a 120V wiring issue that has made things look worse for the gen--I need to redo my test with a better set-up. Will report.)
Honda no load 126.8v
DC out: 75.0 amps, charger set at 14.8, batts at 14.08 rising:
123.8v, 13.64a, 1241w, 1693VA, PF 0.73
So I thought that would fly with a 1700VA running spec on the P2200.
Nope. No load was 124.9v, but at 74 amps (it didn't get the charger to 75) Kill-A-Watt said:
115.7v, 15.13a, 1301w, 1752VA, PF 0.74, and gen red overload light was flashing. Then it popped the breaker.
I adjusted the voltage on the 75 amper trying to find a sweet spot and I was able to get it to keep going at 68 amps DC output at a lower DC voltage. To get the red light to stop flashing I had to fiddle things to get the AC amps down to 14, hair trigger on that for anything over 14.
I don't know how long it will run with the red light flashing (and the Kill-A-Watt volts blinking at the same time)
IMO this should be able to run my 75 amper, but it can't seem to. Note the big voltage drop from 124.9 to 115.9, where the Honda 3000 dropped from 126.8 to 123.8 doing the same 75 amper. This may be due to a 120v wiring "issue" difference, so I will redo the test with a better 120v wiring set-up and see if that helps.
More to learn here I think.
( I might have a 120V wiring issue that has made things look worse for the gen--I need to redo my test with a better set-up. Will report.)
Honda no load 126.8v
DC out: 75.0 amps, charger set at 14.8, batts at 14.08 rising:
123.8v, 13.64a, 1241w, 1693VA, PF 0.73
So I thought that would fly with a 1700VA running spec on the P2200.
Nope. No load was 124.9v, but at 74 amps (it didn't get the charger to 75) Kill-A-Watt said:
115.7v, 15.13a, 1301w, 1752VA, PF 0.74, and gen red overload light was flashing. Then it popped the breaker.
I adjusted the voltage on the 75 amper trying to find a sweet spot and I was able to get it to keep going at 68 amps DC output at a lower DC voltage. To get the red light to stop flashing I had to fiddle things to get the AC amps down to 14, hair trigger on that for anything over 14.
I don't know how long it will run with the red light flashing (and the Kill-A-Watt volts blinking at the same time)
IMO this should be able to run my 75 amper, but it can't seem to. Note the big voltage drop from 124.9 to 115.9, where the Honda 3000 dropped from 126.8 to 123.8 doing the same 75 amper. This may be due to a 120v wiring "issue" difference, so I will redo the test with a better 120v wiring set-up and see if that helps.
More to learn here I think.
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