dougrainer wrote:
You ALWAYS wire the 120 element DIRECT to 120 power to test a CU. Just 2 wires and connect to an extension cord. Run 24 hours. IF the FREEZER does not get cold or below 10 degrees the CU is bad. IF the lower section does not get below 38 degrees the CU is bad. Now, I am not a fan of rebuilt as a Service Shop. IF they are defective they do not pay a fair labor for the shop to diag and replace the defective unit. Now, IF or you are doing the work yourself, I would go with a Rebuilt. That way, IF it is bad, you have the time to replace the defective unit. BTW, Dometic and rebuilders BOTH have replacement CU's for your model. I would never trust that so called RV shop again. Doug
PS, I don't know where that poster got his info that a defective Thermister will freeze or get extremely cold. WIVES TALE. I have yet to see a Thermister make a BAD CU freeze or get extremely cold. Yes, they can cause too low temps, but don't use that as a guideline for Diag on a cooling problem.
If cooling unit is functioning a bad thermistor will cause overcooling due to limp mode/bos
Unplugging thermistor leads and running fridge can help determine if cooling unit is capable of cooling.
And if it is...then replace the thermistor
If NOT...then force cool by plugging element leads in directly to outlet and run fridge
IF it gets cold...bad circuit board
IF it does NOT...bad cooling unit
But kinda mute point now cause OP has already removed cooling unit so testing of cooling unit is futile.
