Changing tire on the road?

Executive wrote:
Interesting note...we had a flat on the outside dual..22.5 tire. When the guy from Coach Net arrived with the new tire, he positioned a metal ramp under the inside dual, had me pull forward onto it and dismounted the bad tire, installed the new one and aired it up without ever removing the rim....Dennis

Huuuhhh?

So if I'm understanding things correctly... the good inside dual was holding all the weight for a short time while at the same time being mounted on lug bolts with no lug nuts on them?

That doesn't sound like a good/safe practice to me. :h

atreis wrote:
Had one on my trailer - piece of metal poked a hole in the tire. I pulled the good tire up onto leveling blocks, then tried to remove the bad tire (but hadn't broken the lug nuts loose ...). Backed it back off the blocks, broke the nuts loose, pulled it back onto the blocks again, removed the bad one, put on the spare as tight as I could, backed it back off the blocks, torqued the nuts good, and went on my way. The whole process took about an hour. Some ways down the road I stopped at a tire place and had them torque the nuts again just to be sure and replace the bad tire.

Good job. You're a pro now!

Dave H M wrote:
I don't like to carry excess weight, like heavy bottle jacks.

My Ford truck jack will work.

Just a thought.

Swapped out truck jack for the good bottle jack.

Dave H M wrote:
I don't like to carry excess weight, like heavy bottle jacks.

My Ford truck jack will work.

Just a thought.

I just picked up my 4 ton bottle jack. It doesn't weigh more than a case of beer, probably around 8 lbs.

I don't like to carry excess weight, like heavy bottle jacks.

My Ford truck jack will work.

Just a thought.

Had one on my trailer - piece of metal poked a hole in the tire. I pulled the good tire up onto leveling blocks, then tried to remove the bad tire (but hadn't broken the lug nuts loose ...). Backed it back off the blocks, broke the nuts loose, pulled it back onto the blocks again, removed the bad one, put on the spare as tight as I could, backed it back off the blocks, torqued the nuts good, and went on my way. The whole process took about an hour. Some ways down the road I stopped at a tire place and had them torque the nuts again just to be sure and replace the bad tire.

I also use the Trailer-Aide. Works great and a lot lighter than hauling around a bottle jack.

acritzer wrote:

doughere wrote:
I use a trailer-aid which is just a plastic ramp. Pull good tire up on trailer-aid, and bad is off enough to change. About $35.

Doug

Like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Aid-Tandem-Tire-Changing/dp/B000I4JPZE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1429979525&sr=8-1&keywords=trailer+aid


Is it hard to maneuver up onto? Doesn't look especially wide.

No. just put in front or back of the good tire, and pull forward or back as needed to pull good tire up on it.

My 5er rides slightly high front, so last dump of any trip I use it to just raise trailer slightly to get a good dump; use is easy!

Doug

Ron3rd wrote:
Last time I changed a tire on the road on my ole tandem axle trailer, I pulled the good wheel up on wood blocks so the flat tire/wheel was hanging in the air. Zapped the lugs of with my Milwaukee 1/2" Impact (425 ft lbs of torque) and was back on the road in about 10 minutes.

Would love to have one...but have to go budget friendly for now.

Last time I changed a tire on the road on my ole tandem axle trailer, I pulled the good wheel up on wood blocks so the flat tire/wheel was hanging in the air. Zapped the lugs of with my Milwaukee 1/2" Impact (425 ft lbs of torque) and was back on the road in about 10 minutes.