Cheap Refrigerator question

We replaced our failing Norcold fridge about 4 years ago with the most basic suitably sized residential fridge we could find to minimize the electronics used. The model we chose is a 10.1 cu ft Haier that was a near perfect fit in the Norcold space, requiring just a bit of added trim around the edges. I modified a couple of standard window latches to secure the doors while underway. We've not been sorry we made the change to a residential fridge...

Dutch....I've been told that you have to leave it unplugged and set several hours after moving, to let dirt etc settle in the freon lines before plugging it in. I think there is a filter in the line so I'm skeptical about that. Do you do that or turn it on right away?

We always camp where we have 110 volts so I'm not worried about power.

We bought a magic chief. It was very close to fitting but it was about 6 inches taller. In our TT it wasn't a problem. Cost was about $350.

tewitt1949 wrote:
Dutch....I've been told that you have to leave it unplugged and set several hours after moving, to let dirt etc settle in the freon lines before plugging it in. I think there is a filter in the line so I'm skeptical about that. Do you do that or turn it on right away?

All compressor fridges (and air conditioners, and dehumidifiers, and other compressor cooling units) need to be upright for several hours before turning on if they've been on their side or back or upside down so that the liquid and gas in the system can settle properly and sort itself out. Bouncing around and being several degrees out of kilter is different and is not really a problem; they can operate fine just after (or during) such treatment. Hence, you should usually wait for a good bit after installation, but you don't need to wait after parking in your campsite...unless your RV as a whole was upside down or on its side, I suppose.

jerryjay11 wrote:
Been in the business of servicing or repairing home refrigerators since retiring from the USAF in 97.

Just keep in mind that household refrigerators were not designed to withstand the bouncing of a TT and it's life expectancy can be shorter.

That's a great point, but will be ignored here and at every other RV forum in existence.

Ralph Cramden wrote:

jerryjay11 wrote:
Been in the business of servicing or repairing home refrigerators since retiring from the USAF in 97.

Just keep in mind that household refrigerators were not designed to withstand the bouncing of a TT and it's life expectancy can be shorter.

That's a great point, but will be ignored here and at every other RV forum in existence.

My parent's RV fridge died at 10 years old this year. They were quoted something like $1400 for a new one, not including installation. Since they camp with hookups 99% of the time, they went to Home Depot and bought a small residential fridge that fit the opening for a little over $300. They could replace that fridge 3 more times and still be almost $200 ahead. So basically, if the fridge lasts 2.5 years, it is worth it. Plus it keeps things colder and has more space in it...so long as you have hookups.

When I was considering a residential I searched all over but couldn't find people complaining of faliures in rvs

It's not failures but energy dependency that limit its use in RVs. Or - used to limit. You will be replacing the dependency on reliability of propane fridge with dependency on daily charging (when offgrid). Maybe this will change in some years from now, with more Li batteries, so that you could (at least) spend a weekend without having to run a generator, but then the word "cheap" needs to be redefined. Motorhomes are more "tolerant" to 110V fridge due to alternator wiring, but the OP has a TT.

Another thing that I observed (other than being not quite cheap, in my case suitable 11 cu.ft model is +$500 plus inverter), is that most people with 110V fridges either camp on hookups or are doing short weekend trips. One of few exceptions is Mr Wiz here, with 600-something watt solar (sill has to run a generator occasionally, but he is fulltiming, different scenario).

Bob E. wrote:
.. Plus it keeps things colder and has more space in it...so long as you have hookups.

Just a slight inconvenience.

Bob E. wrote:
Plus it keeps things colder and has more space in it...so long as you have hookups.

We haven't experienced those downsides with the 6.3 cu. ft. Norcold propane refrigerator in our RV.

6.3 cu. ft. is 6.3 cu. ft., and it happens that the 6.3 cu. ft. inside of our Norcold is plenty enough room for the two of us for at least a week or more . It has 5 coldness settings and we use it most of the time on setting 3. Setting 5 freezes stuff in the refrigerator section and keeps the freezer section less than zero (which is too cold to provide on-tap-usable ice cream). A 10 degree freezer is perfect for ice cream and that is what setting 3 gets us in most conditions. We sometimes use Setting 4 when it's really hot outside.

I'm really scratching my head regarding all the complaints in the forums about poor RV propane refrigerator performance. Either they're not building the propane refrigerators like they used to (our RV is a 2005) ... or RV manufacturers don't know how to, or don't care to, install them properly anymore. :h

pnichols wrote:
I'm really scratching my head regarding all the complaints in the forums about poor RV propane refrigerator performance. Either they're not building the propane refrigerators like they used to (our RV is a 2005) ... or RV manufacturers don't know how to, or don't care to, install them properly anymore. :h

I had a new Dometic installed in 2013 and it's been flawless. Doesn't even balk when it's 105°