clearance lights/fantastic fan grounding
hey everyone! I've finally got the entire outside built and sealed from weather on my 20 foot 1979 ford class C! I've got the new clearance lights/tail lights and 4x fantastic fan vents on there, re...
Forum Discussion
so what I've done is run all of my circuits through the open walls, I have black and white running right by all clearance lights, all wiring for tail lights/license plate/reverse light/etc ready to connect, and all of my 120v and 12v circuits run. I won't be connecting any of the 110 to fixtures or even a converter yet(they sent me the wrong one, sent it back and never ordered the new one). I have spray foam being done this weekend, so the goal was to have all the wires in *roughly* the correct places before the foam goes in. I left about 1-2 feet on each end of every circuit for play/safety room. 4 fantastic vents(one is temporary so I'm using the light circuit for the fan until march, then ill switch it to a light fixture and put the AC in.
I didn't think it was a good idea to ground to outside panels, since I got electrocuted a kid that way. my old cortex was grounded to the outside(generator) and if you touched any metal at all while it was running, you got a shock. that won't happen with clearance lights? I know the voltage is way lower but I still don't want to have to avoid touching the outside of the camper ever.
I ordered a few different kinds of solder(were like 2-5$ each, not too bad). I got lead free, 60/40, and petrol based acid. I have friends ill give the extra to, so it works out. you guys say no rv companies solder but all of my 12v connections were soldered from the original converter, but the 110 were wire nutted and had very modern Romex so whatever I pulled out for 110v was not original, meaning I don't know how they did it originally.
I'm forced to move into this thing on January 1st, so I don't mind painting pray foam and leaving it for a few months open, as long as its warm and I have SOME power. luckily I already have my compost toilet, which uses very little 12v power so with that, a Coleman stove, a cooler, and my furnace the next few months won't be too too bad and I can finish the inside in march-april.
next, I'm going solar. I do not have a converter so most of my circuits are useless for now, but I do need to order this weekend, a small solar set to get me by for a bit. this is what I'm getting, I believe it is all compatible
BATTERY. https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4-volt-Deep-Cycle-Battery/dp/B06XX197GJ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513173561&sr=8-1&keywords=battleborn+lithium
mppt controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GMUPGZA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A17GQCX3W4R1TW&psc=1
2 of these panels. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009Z6CW7O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
inverter. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPRJ1HB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2TN19FHI2Z5KL&psc=1
I will be running from this power alone for a few months. doable yes, could be better but the controller will allow me to upgrade to what ill need in the end so the only thing ill ever need to add to this is more batteries/panels, the controller will last a few years for what I need. no matter where I look though, I can't find out if it will charge 14.4-14.6 volts which that battery needs.
I didn't think it was a good idea to ground to outside panels, since I got electrocuted a kid that way. my old cortex was grounded to the outside(generator) and if you touched any metal at all while it was running, you got a shock. that won't happen with clearance lights? I know the voltage is way lower but I still don't want to have to avoid touching the outside of the camper ever.
I ordered a few different kinds of solder(were like 2-5$ each, not too bad). I got lead free, 60/40, and petrol based acid. I have friends ill give the extra to, so it works out. you guys say no rv companies solder but all of my 12v connections were soldered from the original converter, but the 110 were wire nutted and had very modern Romex so whatever I pulled out for 110v was not original, meaning I don't know how they did it originally.
I'm forced to move into this thing on January 1st, so I don't mind painting pray foam and leaving it for a few months open, as long as its warm and I have SOME power. luckily I already have my compost toilet, which uses very little 12v power so with that, a Coleman stove, a cooler, and my furnace the next few months won't be too too bad and I can finish the inside in march-april.
next, I'm going solar. I do not have a converter so most of my circuits are useless for now, but I do need to order this weekend, a small solar set to get me by for a bit. this is what I'm getting, I believe it is all compatible
BATTERY. https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4-volt-Deep-Cycle-Battery/dp/B06XX197GJ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513173561&sr=8-1&keywords=battleborn+lithium
mppt controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GMUPGZA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A17GQCX3W4R1TW&psc=1
2 of these panels. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009Z6CW7O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
inverter. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPRJ1HB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2TN19FHI2Z5KL&psc=1
I will be running from this power alone for a few months. doable yes, could be better but the controller will allow me to upgrade to what ill need in the end so the only thing ill ever need to add to this is more batteries/panels, the controller will last a few years for what I need. no matter where I look though, I can't find out if it will charge 14.4-14.6 volts which that battery needs.
