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BurbMan's avatar
BurbMan
Explorer II
Apr 04, 2022

Compartment latches and locks

I've got some very large storage doors on the basement of the 5er with the standard-issue CH751 locks. The locks are finicky, and the quart-turn stops are all broken on the latches so they spin around and around, leaving you to guess when the tabs are actually engaged to the frame and holding the door closed.

I upgraded to the round 7-pin tumbler locks on the previous TT and they were a little better but don't think I will go that way again. These are typical towable 3/4" thick storage doors, not the heavier Class A doors that use slam latches. Several of the doors are so big that they have 3 latches, 2 thumb turns with a locking latch in the middle.

Any suggestions for "upgraded" latches?
  • Curly2001 wrote:
    The hard locks are the slam latch locks. Would like to replace mine with different keys but I don't think that is possible. Have to lube them every few times we camp to keep them able to lock on the latch side. Use a silcone lube on them to keep them cleaner. Getting to be a real issue.
    Curly


    Silicone lube is the reason you have to relube often.

    Silicon lubes once the transport liquid evaporates doesn't leave behind enough silicon to do any world of good..

    Have tried it on vehicle door gaskets when the automotive world got rid of the old rain gutters.. The gutterless doors in the middle of a long cold winter snap end up frozen solid to the gaskets.. Spraying with silicon would only help for one or two times and then freeze up solid..

    The exact same thing happens in door locks..

    That is why I started using the TriFlow I posted, it is oily, it will leave a oily residue behind and it also contains something far slipperier than silicon called Teflon.. There is a reason as to why they don't use Silicon as a non stick coating on skillets..

    The oil in Triflow prevents moisture from attacking the pot metal in the lock. This is very important, unprotected pot metal when it is in contact with water or moisture from the air corrodes into a white powder, the powder helps to jam the lock.. Making things worse is as the potmetal corrodes, it swells up, getting larger in size which combined with the powder ruins the lock.

    Spray the Triflow in, insert key, rotate a couple of times and pull key out. Wipe oil on the key off and repeat key in and out a couple of times. This removes extra oil from the key slot.. After that, no more oil on key and your lock will not get stuck. I use this on any lock that is outdoors to prevent freezing in cold weather and rusting stuck. I only have to reapply Triflow once every 5 or so yrs on my outdoor locks..
  • I went with these combination storage locks about 8 years ago.

    Combination Locks on Amazon

    i've never looked back and haven't had any issues with them spinning.
    If your existing locks are spinning, the nut on the back has come loose and you're going to need some sort of washer to stop it from spinning.

    The cam locks above don't come with washers - so you're going to need to find them online (e.g. McMaster-Carr)

    I went with the dark finished locks as the chrome/polished finished ones are harder to read.
    (black with white numbers is easier to read at night)

    in the 8 years I've had the combo locks, i've never had a problem with them not working well. I've found that the metal behind the lock has gotten bent when DW doesn't full open the lock and the metal of the lock strikes the lip on the inside... but that's operator error not a defect of the lock itself.