Forum Discussion
HiTech
May 27, 2013Explorer
Yes. I am correcting for that as well with my handy dandy IR gun. Batteries are at 82 right now. They vary from 72 to 86 for me this time of year. I briefly quit even float charging them above 85 and certainly quit charging if they are at a high state of charge, because at that temp they gas easily when approaching full. I spend a lot of time flipping into iBooks for a quick check of the temperature compensation tables. I think it was easier to charge in the cool temps.
My handy little buck and boost converters let me adjust voltage and current pretty precisely. Currently I'm back to the point where I cannot charge any more in the charge voltage range (13.8-14.6v) so I am at temperature compensated float, soaking in around. 0.06 amps. When i get the batteries there, 0.03 amps at float will be greater than 97% charged. It seems like charging at the low spec of temp compensated 13.8v until all cells are giving off at least a few micro bubbles (valves under distilled water) here and there, then falling back to float to finish the charge is the most thorough and least violent way to get charged, at least in these warmer temps. I think I still have some stronger cells from being new and not having been on sustained float that many hours. But full charge is important as a starting and ending point for these discharge curves to help me much.
I let the Schumacher on AGM cycle run to recharge them and it did quite well. When running a full cycle from somewhere in the 35%-45% (depending on Peukert value) discharged state and letting it run it's whole charge cycle (including many hours past when it falsely indicated 100% charged), it ran the batteries between 28 amps and 0 amps with a little of it's normal dancing around. It never bubbled any cells, and got the batteries back to about 90% charge, but only including many hours at 2.5amps, when it indicated full and no charging indicators were on.
From there the 8 amp charger took over for a few more hours, then the 2 amp setting regulated through the buck converter for fine tuned control, finish charge and float.
Jim
My handy little buck and boost converters let me adjust voltage and current pretty precisely. Currently I'm back to the point where I cannot charge any more in the charge voltage range (13.8-14.6v) so I am at temperature compensated float, soaking in around. 0.06 amps. When i get the batteries there, 0.03 amps at float will be greater than 97% charged. It seems like charging at the low spec of temp compensated 13.8v until all cells are giving off at least a few micro bubbles (valves under distilled water) here and there, then falling back to float to finish the charge is the most thorough and least violent way to get charged, at least in these warmer temps. I think I still have some stronger cells from being new and not having been on sustained float that many hours. But full charge is important as a starting and ending point for these discharge curves to help me much.
I let the Schumacher on AGM cycle run to recharge them and it did quite well. When running a full cycle from somewhere in the 35%-45% (depending on Peukert value) discharged state and letting it run it's whole charge cycle (including many hours past when it falsely indicated 100% charged), it ran the batteries between 28 amps and 0 amps with a little of it's normal dancing around. It never bubbled any cells, and got the batteries back to about 90% charge, but only including many hours at 2.5amps, when it indicated full and no charging indicators were on.
From there the 8 amp charger took over for a few more hours, then the 2 amp setting regulated through the buck converter for fine tuned control, finish charge and float.
Jim
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