We have a 2013 Kodiak 300BHSL and we love it. But, we have found a few short comings. The AC is not quite capable of cooling down this whole rig on a hot, sunny Texas day and when you get electronics for five people going at one time, you pop the breaker quite often.We can live with the AC by finding shadier sites in the summer & using fans inside to circulate the air, but I would really like to address the lack of electric amperage.Before we start, we use our trailer for camping and we use it as a hotel suite when vacationing. When we go camping, the kids are not allowed to be on electronics until bedtime if at all. But when we're vacationing (depending on where we are at), there's four TV's, four DirecTV DVR's, three iPad's, a PlayStation, three laptops, five phone chargers, two fans, outdoor beer fridge, party lights, etc.With that said, I was hoping somebody here knew of a shop or electrician with experience on the type of conversion I am looking for somewhere in the Dallas/Fort Worth area. I would even travel a few hundred miles to get it done right. I know it will be expensive, but we plan on keeping & using this trailer for many years.I will admit, when it comes to electricity, I'm a novice. I'm not 100% sure if converting to 50 amp would fix our issue or if maybe we switched our power supply to an inverter/charge system to something like a Xantrex Freedom SW with extra batteries & solar panels would accomplish the same thing.Any & all help related to resolving my electrical issue will be greatly appreciated!

You can take iat to fun town rv they can do it for you.

Hi,Depends on how deep your pockets are. I simply added some auxiliary shore power cords. One runs the water heater, another the converter. Each of them have extra outlets.None of the items you list are particularly "high draw" devices, and some of them possibly run from 12 volt dc (the fans).I'd do a survey of which breaker powers what outlets in the RV, then I'd "balance the loads" to avoid plugging all the items into one circuit.If you do decide to "bite the bullet" then make sure they add extra outlets for you to use.

Couldn't you run a extension cord out through slideout and plug into the 15amp pedestal for your toy power suppy

I did it and it isn't difficult. The greatest thing to deal with is space requirements in newer trailers. The 50 amp load centers are usually larger than the 30 amp size. Beyond that, wiring to a power inlet or direct wiring a shore power cord is all that is needed. I would recommend a power inlet be installed as the 50 amp power cords are like wrestling a python and a cord that can be disconnected is easier to deal with.

Getting 50A to the TT is pretty do-able if you have the space for the larger breaker box. BUT, those outlets are still on the same circuits that run thru the trailer...the only way to avoid tripping breakers is to break up those circuits into more circuits, which involves running wire through the trailer, not just to the panel box. Electronic devices are pretty low current draw so can't imagine that even all of the stuff you listed would draw more than 15A on one circuit.Before you spend $$$ to re-wire the trailer, try using an aux cord. Run an extension from the 20A breaker on the pedestal to power the outside fridge, icemaker and awning lights. Keep the hot water heater on gas, not electric. Go through the trailer one breaker at a time and see which outlets are on the same circuits. You may be able to relocate a few key items to distribute the load better.I would try the easy stuff first before you dive in and rewire the trailer.

Convert our Trailer's electrical system from 30 to 50 amp

newman_fulltime
Explorer II
Jan 07, 2014
You can take iat to fun town rv they can do it for you.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Jan 07, 2014
Hi,

Depends on how deep your pockets are. I simply added some auxiliary shore power cords. One runs the water heater, another the converter. Each of them have extra outlets.

None of the items you list are particularly "high draw" devices, and some of them possibly run from 12 volt dc (the fans).

I'd do a survey of which breaker powers what outlets in the RV, then I'd "balance the loads" to avoid plugging all the items into one circuit.

If you do decide to "bite the bullet" then make sure they add extra outlets for you to use.
grampachet
Explorer
Jan 07, 2014
Couldn't you run a extension cord out through slideout and plug into the 15amp pedestal for your toy power suppy
westend
Explorer
Jan 07, 2014
I did it and it isn't difficult. The greatest thing to deal with is space requirements in newer trailers. The 50 amp load centers are usually larger than the 30 amp size. Beyond that, wiring to a power inlet or direct wiring a shore power cord is all that is needed. I would recommend a power inlet be installed as the 50 amp power cords are like wrestling a python and a cord that can be disconnected is easier to deal with.
BurbMan
Explorer II
Jan 07, 2014
Getting 50A to the TT is pretty do-able if you have the space for the larger breaker box. BUT, those outlets are still on the same circuits that run thru the trailer...the only way to avoid tripping breakers is to break up those circuits into more circuits, which involves running wire through the trailer, not just to the panel box.

Electronic devices are pretty low current draw so can't imagine that even all of the stuff you listed would draw more than 15A on one circuit.

Before you spend $$$ to re-wire the trailer, try using an aux cord. Run an extension from the 20A breaker on the pedestal to power the outside fridge, icemaker and awning lights. Keep the hot water heater on gas, not electric. Go through the trailer one breaker at a time and see which outlets are on the same circuits. You may be able to relocate a few key items to distribute the load better.

I would try the easy stuff first before you dive in and rewire the trailer.
mrekim
Explorer
Jan 07, 2014
NLPRacing wrote:
on a hot, sunny Texas day and when you get electronics for five people going at one time, you pop the breaker quite often.

Which breaker trips?
wildtoad
Explorer II
Jan 07, 2014
I'd opt for running another line to the pedestal for running/charging all the electronic devices such as all those phones, ipads, and laptops and you could just charge them late at night when folks are sacked out. None of these is much of a draw.

Party lights and extra fridge could also be powered by the extension cord.
westend
Explorer
Jan 07, 2014
It sounds like the total load is where the problem is, not a single circuit so no need to redistribute or rewire the trailer. The OP states that when the AC is on and all of the entertainment devices in use, a breaker trips. By putting the AC on one phase in a 50 amp load center and putting those outlets most used on the other phase, the problems should cease. Configuring a 50 amp load center is all about balancing out loads.

I don't come near to using all of my 50 amps nor is there an imbalance on one leg. Just like residential wiring, distribution is the key.
monkey44
Nomad II
Jan 07, 2014
westend wrote:
It sounds like the total load is where the problem is, not a single circuit so no need to redistribute or rewire the trailer. The OP states that when the AC is on and all of the entertainment devices in use, a breaker trips. By putting the AC on one phase in a 50 amp load center and putting those outlets most used on the other phase, the problems should cease. Configuring a 50 amp load center is all about balancing out loads.

I don't come near to using all of my 50 amps nor is there an imbalance on one leg. Just like residential wiring, distribution is the key.

That is the simplest answer - redistribute the load.

If you add an additional sub-panel somewhere convenient (you only need one power lead to it w/ground), you could run the electronics all from it. All you'd need is a few wires run and a few plugs for those items separate.

OR, another option, plug a small surge-breaker panel and power it from the 20a breaker on the power pedestal -- Best run it thru a surge protector). That will separate all the electronics from the rest of the RV. This is probably the least expensive way. If you install one surge-protector with eight plugs and a battery back-up (we have one that cost $80), you can run eight small units off it (like phone chargers and X-box, laptops. And all it needs it a 20a feed, even a heavy-duty extension cord - those devices you're talking about use very little juice each. So, plugging into one power unit will give you enough.
BB_TX
Nomad
Jan 07, 2014
I am assuming you are speaking of tripping the park 30 amp breaker.
There is nothing special about 50 amp service. It is wired just like a house. And any decent RV service department should be able to do it for you, IF you have room for the larger distribution center (breaker panel). At that time they can distribute the loads across the two legs and, if you want, add a new circuit for a second air conditioner.
There are a number of large RV dealers with service departments in the DFW area. Talk to 2 or 3, get quotes, and go with the one that you feel most comfortable with, if the price is right.