Convert to 50 amp

I learned to live with 3500 watts. I do not like the idea of compromising some of the functions when 50-amp service is not available. For 20-years, I have lived down here with 12/2 wiring and a load limit of about 20-amps. The "Quicksilver Express" will remain single pole.

But aside from my opinions, I would recommend putting the A/C on the same phase as other non-critical components like the electric water heater and bathroom receptacle for the DWs blow dryer. Use the alternative phase for refrigerator, electronics, and sensitive appliances. Inductive loads throw sand while playing and innocent electronics take a real beating. I'm far away from my oscilloscope and rig but a screen shot of the instant the compressor shuts off would raise the hair on the back of your neck. Microwaves aren't much nicer.

Weekend Warrior used to have 'dealer installed' 50 amp option.

What the dealership would do is install a 125 amp rated circuit breaker box in a storage compartment, and install a 50 amp main 2 pole breaker, 20 amp for each A/C and the storage area. Then install a 30 amp breaker to feed the factory installed breaker panel.

After that you can run everything in the RV at once.

Good luck with your project.

Fred.

I migrated to 50 amp but had all of the electrical pulled so locating the new load center wasn't an issue. I also have a deck mount converter so no "shoe-in" required. The largest expense, by far, is the shore cord. If I had paid full retail for the Marinco cord, it would have been more than the load center, the breakers, and the power inlet, combined

A cheaper alternative is to install a separate 20 amp service and terminate one of your highest draw devices to that new subpanel. Or, you could probably use the same load center if you have an empty breaker slot.

Several years ago I converted my fifth wheel to 50 amps. I purchased the fify amp cord from someone on ebay and I found the electrical box and breakers at Home Depot. As mentioned before the difficult job was removing the 30 amp cable and getting the 50 amp cable into the fiver.

Maybe the breaker that trips is the main 30A breaker? If there's some other non-negligible loads as well (particularly a water heater), it would not be hard at all to exceed 30A...and possibly not otherwise depending on the microwave and the air conditioner in question.

If it is the 30A breaker that's popping, it may also be that the breaker is old/worn and tripping below its rating. That happens sometimes; replacing it would help in that case.

If you have a generator with a transfer switch, you'd have to upgrade the transfer switch at the same time.

I suspect it won't be too difficult to find a 50A panel that fits in the space of your 30A panel. The Parallax 3050-15 and WFCO 8930/50 are both pretty compact AC and DC distribution panels with 50A capacity. Neither one has a converter built in; if the panel you're replacing does (and is of this approximately 9" high size), you'd have to put it in a box or buy a deck-mount converter or something equivalent.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
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I would first determine if the factory did a stupid with balancing load with the breakers. You may have 2-breakers doing 80% of the load.

I agree and find it puzzling how they could put two items that exceed the breaker capacity on the same breaker.:E I would think code requirements would prevent that.:h:S

Larry

Numbers numbers numbers

I would first determine if the factory did a stupid with balancing load with the breakers. You may have 2-breakers doing 80% of the load.

Sounds like you have done a good job with the research.

It would also puzzle me to have the microwave and A/C on the same breaker. What amp is it???

There are other, less costly "work arounds", but I would start by putting your two heaviest loads on separate breakers.

Worse case (zero $$) would be to put the roof A/C to fan while the microwave is on.

Lots of options.

The only hard part is pulling new romex from cord entry to the panel.

What is the panel model number?

MW and AC on one branch circuit seems wrong for OEM. Did PO add something?

Do you keep the water and fridge on propane when the air is running?