Converter Box and AC thermostat

The standard testing device is a voltmeter. You are looking for about 13.6 volts.

Disconnect the battery cable and see if any lights work. Bright and steady with no battery points to taking the battery down for testing or replacement. If the converter cannot keep the lights on converter is probably shot and needs to be removed for a bench test.

If it seems to be the converter... you can reconnect the battery and get a 10+ amp portable charger and just keep the battery charged until you sort out the converter. At least that should keep the cool air flowing. Walmart might still be open ;)

I'm not in a bind for AC as the primary ducted air is the only one with a thermostat. I was just wondering if this would indeed be a cause for the AC compressor not working.

To connect antenna to a convertor box and then distribution center then to older TV which goes on line first from antenna?

Any trouble-shooting begins with the last thing that was monkeyed with, which is the new A/C

You could have a duff connection to the DuoTherm thermostat which would prevent the A/C from working right, besides any battery/converter issues.

boiledcrabs wrote:
I'm not in a bind for AC as the primary ducted air is the only one with a thermostat. I was just wondering if this would indeed be a cause for the AC compressor not working.

No, the Compressor has no 12 volts other than the Compressor relay on the AC control board requires 12 volts to close the relay. I guess it is possible that IF the dc voltage dropped below 10.5 volts, the AC relay may open. But, usually, if you have dc voltage too low, the AC system will not engage to run the fan either. You need to post the digital exact dc voltage you are experiancing. Doug

brick wrote:
To connect antenna to a convertor box and then distribution center then to older TV which goes on line first from antenna?

IN a motor home or RV the distribution box is usually more than meets the eye.

Many folks refer to the wall plate you find in many trailers and MH's as "The Amplifier" and of course they have no clue, the amplifier is in the antenna.. The wall plate is the POWER SUPPLY.. if you have a box of many buttons as I do, IT is the power supply Feeding 12vdc to the roof. (Well battery voltage).

So Antenna---- Distribution center----Converter--TV 1
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ----Converr 2 TV 2

OR.. If your distribution has a spare in and out

Ant--Distribution box... TVs Except TV 3 goes to the converter, and it's output goes to AUX in (I have one wired kind of like that).

Now select ANT for TV-3 and AUX for the rest.

IF you want better range it gets easier.

put in a Winegard SENSAR PRO. It has two outputs

This is the exception to a rule above it goes BETWEEN the antenna and the distribution box.. I hooked of mine up this way

Now: Ant--Sensar pro--Output 1 to ANT in on distribution box
Output 2 to CONVERTER and converter to AUX

now you push ANT for Analog TV, Push AUX for Digital.

My set up is a tad more Rube Goldberg, But I have a pair of DVR's as well, and that adds to the complexity.

brick wrote:
To connect antenna to a convertor box and then distribution center then to older TV which goes on line first from antenna?

You would do better starting a new subject rather than posting in an old thread that has nothing to do with your question.