Forum Discussion

atp20's avatar
atp20
Explorer
Aug 17, 2013

Converter Power for Electronic Appliances

Hello,

May I ask for advice regarding the power from my WFCO 9855 converter?

I am installing a new DC compressor refrigerator. The installation instructions say to connect it directly to the battery, with no switches, etc, between. Don't take power from a converter, it says. Converters don't supply filtered power.

The WFCO web site says, "The WF-9855 model provides 55 amps of clean, reliable DC power, which is ideal for powering electronics and appliances. The 9800 Series provides clean power, even without filtering from a battery."

So, the manufacturers disagree. Does anyone know why this should be?

In your opinion, should the refrigerator be connected directly to battery positive, or can it be fed properly from the WFCO 9855.

Also...

If connected directly to battery positive, is it OK to use the post by the converter? A fuse should installed on the wire there, no?

Can the refrigerator's negative lead be can grounded to the vehicle chassis (as is the battery negative)?

Any other advice would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Jerry S.
2003 Leisure Travel Free Spirit.
South Florida

8 Replies

  • atp20's avatar
    atp20
    Explorer
    Aug 20, 2013
    Thank you all. I appreciate the advice.

    I spoke with the power converter and refrigerator manufacturers. WFCO confirmed their solid state unit produces very clean 12VDC power. The refrigerator manufacturer said running from a modern converter might be OK, but recommends drawing power from the battery. Also, chassis grounding should be OK.

    So, I am thinking to use 12 gauge wire with a 10 amp fuse, connected to the battery positive post at the power distribution center. I'll probably plug AC into a surge suppressor strip.

    This DC configuration bypasses the handy power center battery cutoff switch. Has that been a problem for anyone?

    For example, say the motorhome is unattended, connected to shore power. If that fails, the refrigerator would automatically switch to DC. Might this load drain the battery?

    Thank you, again, for the assistance.
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    Aug 18, 2013
    First... SOME converters are filtered, Some are not, thus the fridge maker choose the safer route and said do not connect to converter

    2nd. I would (And in fact did) follow the 'fridge maker's recommendations.
  • atp20's avatar
    atp20
    Explorer
    Aug 17, 2013
    The refrigerator draws 0.5 - 2.7 amps 12VDC. Also runs on AC. I have two.
  • wolfe10's avatar
    wolfe10
    Explorer
    Aug 17, 2013
    Direct to battery with inline fuse at the battery positive terminal sized to protect the wire.

    It MIGHT work the other way, but you know direct to battery is either equal to or better (likely) than to the converter.
  • MEXICOWANDERER's avatar
    MEXICOWANDERER
    Explorer
    Aug 17, 2013
    Telephone the manufacturer. They had to issue BOILERPLATE warnings and SOME older converters did not provide clean DC power. The manufacturer wants CLEAN voltage, ENOUGH voltage for his product. That's why no switches. But a FUSE is mandatory at the battery. Find out SPECIFICATIONS with your telephone call MINIMUM versus MAXIMUM permitted voltage. Then come back to the forum IMHO.
  • enblethen's avatar
    enblethen
    Nomad
    Aug 17, 2013
    I would guess that the DC refer does not like anything orther then a good solid 12 volts DC. Voltage drop on start up could be bad. Make sure you run large enough wire. Both ground and positive.
    I would run to the battery.
  • donn0128's avatar
    donn0128
    Explorer II
    Aug 17, 2013
    Personally I would suck it up and stick with the refer manufacturers instructions. Run directly to the battery and be sure to use a fuse sized correctly for the load.

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