Converter Toubleshooting Question

I pulled the converter and looks like there is some burning around the 2 ceramic blocks (resistors) on the circuit board. Also there is one wire that has some prelim burn on it that is next to the ceramic blocks.
I am having a friend take a look at it to see if he can fix it.

That burning at the resistors is a standard wfco feature, i.e. they all do it and the resultant failed solder joints are a common reason for the converter to quit working.

I can replace the resistors. they have no markings on them that I can see. No screen printing at all unless they put it where you cant see it without removing them. I hate to throw away something that just needs resistors replaced.

It's NOT the bleeder resisters that have gone south
The only thing they do is bleed the input side 270VDC off the large capacitors
Two or three smaller capacitors have had their ESR increased
You will need an ESR meter and a very good quality soldering station
C10 on the small 6 layer vertical PCB plus the cap on the main board near the resisters are your best bet
You will be shooting in the dark without a ESR meter

If the converter is not even putting out 13.6 volts I would be rid of it.
Get a PD or IOTA replacement. You might save some money but you are still stuck with WFCO.

The WFCO converters have an output that is not good for batteries. It is well documented on this Forum. Even if you replace all the components on the circuit board, it is still a bad circuit. If you're measuring 12.57 V at the converter output and at the battery, the converter isn't working---you knew that.
I'd recommend a Progressive Dynamics, I have one that runs flawless and is 45 yrs old.

Sounds like a plan. I'll look into one. Thanks for all the input.

I didn't pick my words carefully if it sounded like I was suggesting to replace the big resistors. The heat cycling can cause fatigue cracks in the joints where the resistors are soldered to the circuit board. I wouldn't attempt to diagnose a particular converter without having it in hand, just passing along that I've repaired two wfcos by reflowing these joints. It's IMO a limited time fix, because the poor design of the resistors transferring that much heat to the board will eventually cause the board itself to be the failure cause. I join others in suggesting to take the opportunity to go to a non-wfco converter. I've got 3 working wfcos sitting on the shelf. They make great battery chargers and bench supplies.

My (replacement) WFCO works fine for me. I suppose now that it's well out of warranty I'll replace it with a PD when it fails. Unfortunately PD only goes to 80 amp but I'll probably be OK as I have switched many of my halogen bulbs to LED.