converter

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
"PEANUTS!"

"POPCORN!"

"GITCHER RED-HOTS HERE!"

LOL, you're too much Mex.:B

Now, when the RV is in storage is a good time to pull the battery and have it load tested or charge and dip it with a hydrometer to find out exactly what capacity is left. The hydrometer measures the chemical within the battery so is the final arbiter of the health of a battery.

If the battery is removed, powering the RV with just the converter will probably diagnose any fault or the cause of erratic dimming and such. The WFCO converters have been noted for their poor charging performance. If the WFCO is paired with a long run of typical RV small sized, barely capable wiring, resultant charging may never bring your battery to a full state of charge. Repetition or continuance of a poor situation like this will mean battery replacement on a regular basis.

Replacement of the WFCO converter with a different converter is the ultimate solution. I recommend Progressive Dynamics as a good replacement solution. The PD converter in my trailer is still working after 40+ years. I can't think of a better recommendation than that.
The PD converters are available at Best Converter.com and the owner, Randy and his staff have built a good reputation for customer service.

"PEANUTS!"

"POPCORN!"

"GITCHER RED-HOTS HERE!"

mickey48 wrote:
yes i understand that i must go to the rv. but what to check without shore power.

This makes no sense ... in your first post you said - "had our battery checked and it seems to be ok. i did notice fan not running on converter, any way to check the converter?"

Since you suspect the converter is faulty and want to check it you need to feed it 120 vac shore power. Since your trailer is apparently stored where shore power isn't available that obviously means you either have to take the trailer to where shore power is available OR take shore power to it - i.e. a genset. Alternately, remove the converter from the trailer entirely and take it home, put it on your workbench, and check it with a DVM for proper operation. That however won't tell you if there's something else amiss in the trailer itself so I'd first want to test in place.

yes i understand that i must go to the rv. but what to check without shore power.

mickey48 wrote:
model wf9875

I have my rv in storage at the present time. winter here. so what to do from here

Not sure I understand the question.

You must go TO the RV to do anything.....except maybe blindly ordering a new converter.

You need a meter to check voltages and connections.

All of that has pretty much been covered in the replies so far.

One thing that has not been mentioned is a possible bad connection on the shore power input.

allen8106 wrote:
I don't think it matters what the converter is doing because the lights run off of the battery, not the converter.

Chalk up another camper who (apparently) doesn't understand how 12 V systems really work.

model wf9875

I have my rv in storage at the present time. winter here. so what to do from here

allen8106 wrote:
I don't think it matters what the converter is doing because the lights run off of the battery, not the converter.

I would rethink that. If boondocking without AC, your battery will pick up the load but modern switching converters will power your DC system with or without a battery, AND they're filtered to boot!

I don't think it matters what the converter is doing because the lights run off of the battery, not the converter.

ScottG wrote:
Absolute classic sign of the converter dying. Time to start looking for a replacement.

Also classic sign of a cell shorting out in the battery or of a corroded connection on a main power cable.

One should NOT try to fix faults by guessing.....no matter how good you THINK your guesses are.