Converting Single windows to Double Pane?
I am seriously looking at buying a 2010 Tango 311BHSS TT. I weathered a nasty last winter in Calgary Alberta with temperatures down to about minus 34C or about -30F in a 97 Triple E Topaz 3 season ...
Forum Discussion
Hi Bob,
I would do a sandwich of thin plexiglass. One on the outside of the existing glass and one on the inside. That will give you a triple glazed window.
On the outside I'd cover the entire frame. Add a four inside strip of Styrofoam to the bottom of each window on the outside. It will not look nice, but it will keep the bottom of the glass warm on the inside, so that when condensation forms it will roll down the glass, hit the warm surface, and return to the air inside the RV.
I'd be tempted to cover the entire frame on the inside.
On the inside I'd make up reflectrix or similar covers which would cover the entire window for use after the sun is down. Use industrial velcro so you can put the covers on at night. I leave my expensive Insulbright covers on during the day time on the non sunny side of the RV.
I'm sure you know the grade of clear silicone to use.
I'm also certain you are aware it is the air gap that makes double glazing effective. It needs to be a skinny gap--because you don't want convection currents inside the cavity you are creating.
BTW I'd still add the dual window fans to the cold air return. That way, on days when the 1500 watt heater is enough the heated basement will get some air going through it. Nothing is more frustrating than a fresh water line freeze up.
Be sure to do something with the fridge--either the kit from Norcold, or some sort of thermostatically controlled heat strip in that area. I went through 4 bulbs last winter during wind driven blizzards that destroyed them.
I'm adding the ARP device to my fridge this year.
I would do a sandwich of thin plexiglass. One on the outside of the existing glass and one on the inside. That will give you a triple glazed window.
On the outside I'd cover the entire frame. Add a four inside strip of Styrofoam to the bottom of each window on the outside. It will not look nice, but it will keep the bottom of the glass warm on the inside, so that when condensation forms it will roll down the glass, hit the warm surface, and return to the air inside the RV.
I'd be tempted to cover the entire frame on the inside.
On the inside I'd make up reflectrix or similar covers which would cover the entire window for use after the sun is down. Use industrial velcro so you can put the covers on at night. I leave my expensive Insulbright covers on during the day time on the non sunny side of the RV.
I'm sure you know the grade of clear silicone to use.
I'm also certain you are aware it is the air gap that makes double glazing effective. It needs to be a skinny gap--because you don't want convection currents inside the cavity you are creating.
BTW I'd still add the dual window fans to the cold air return. That way, on days when the 1500 watt heater is enough the heated basement will get some air going through it. Nothing is more frustrating than a fresh water line freeze up.
Be sure to do something with the fridge--either the kit from Norcold, or some sort of thermostatically controlled heat strip in that area. I went through 4 bulbs last winter during wind driven blizzards that destroyed them.
I'm adding the ARP device to my fridge this year.
