Corrosion on cable end!

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Here's my RV plug tool

More like this..



End of problem, no longer need to worry about that silly connector.

Here's my RV plug tool

Wow! Little did I suspect my humble question would generate such enthusiastic responses! Thanks you everyone. I am on the road to recovery.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Square hole round plug. Brush cleaner will not fit.

I was replacing the play toy RV setup about once every 18 months. Then I smartened up and changed over to a big rig 7-way connector Mounts the same. I chose the model that has pins that can be spread. Big difference between Harmonious Butterfly tools versus Snap-On.

Just noticed that but here's a cleaner on Amazon for $31 that includes a tester.

Square hole round plug. Brush cleaner will not fit.

I was replacing the play toy RV setup about once every 18 months. Then I smartened up and changed over to a big rig 7-way connector Mounts the same. I chose the model that has pins that can be spread. Big difference between Harmonious Butterfly tools versus Snap-On.

That is one nasty looking 7-way plug/connector. Looks like it has been sitting in water for months along with road salt.



Lemme go see what google has to say.
Okay, back...

Did you know that they actually make a brush specifically to clean these connectors? (I know I didn't.) Available at your local auto parts store (Napa is $30):


Or for something fancier and around $70 + shipping you could get one of these. Great way to impress friends. :) Hmmm, wonder if this would also work in a CG pedestal recept.?? :B


'Course, you could just go buy a replacement connector for like $6 (ebay) instead of cleaning it.

10-4. Nicely done!! Hopefully the OP has all the information he needs to solve his problem on his equipment in the way that he chooses. I hope we have helped and my recliner also awaits me.

To each his own :)

Me? I'm a cheapskate

I'd rather PREVENT A PROBLEM

Make things bullet-proof before a breakdown

With a beautiful NEW LOOKING plug and socket. Open it up (except a molded plug)

TAKE AN IMAGE WITH YOUR CELLULAR and store it permanently. For future use.

We are talking new so cleaning is not necessary. But just like inside the AC breaker panel VERIFICATION OF VERY TIGHT SCREWS IS IMPORTANT

For this job I prefer DIELECTRIC SILICONE GREASE. Goosh a blob onto each terminal, wire to plug.

Then goosh a blob onto each pin.

Then into each slot on the receptacle. Ewwwww you don't like transparent grease on your fingers.

Grab a rag and wipe off the excess.

Congrats! While lazy owners are fighting corrosion and running around buying sockets and plugs, you're kicking back at home, laughing.

Silicone grease can also be used in the AC breaker cabinet. I've screwed around with NA-LOX and silicone grease. Because it is cleaner to use and lasts every bit as long as NA-LOX or longer I prefer silicone grease. Please unplug and shut off the inverter while working in the AC breaker cabinet.

Truly green RVers take a few minutes to eliminate needless carbon footprinting. Keep plugs and sockets OUT of landfills. Save gasoline by not doing the "Hunt and Peck to find a replacement".

To Each Their Own

By the way. Apply 12 volts and energize a terminal exposed to salt air (winter road salt?) and it will corrode dozens of times faster if it is not coating protected. From the university of the hardest knocks.

Go fix your corroded stuff my recliner is calling me...

rhagfo writes "Well not all the STUPID, as I would look inside anyway to see how far the corrosion has gone, likely the ends on the wires and terminals."

AND also wrote

"Sorry, before I would go to this much effort, I would replace with nice new clean zero corrosion. You still don’t know how corroded the screw terminals are for the $10ish that the plug end cost way better and easier! "

Sorry, it IS stupid to ASSUME that the CONTACTS of the connector AND the WIRES going into said connector are shot from that single photo.

Granted, the corrosion of the contacts looks bad, but in reality it is more likely NOTHING IS WRONG with the wire or the contacts.

The simple and quick solution is to SHINE the contacts, plug it in and see if you have lights and charging.

ASSUMING that all is bad and blindly tearing into the connector most likely will result in the OP CAUSING damage to said plug and wiring by disturbing it.

A quick shine will not hurt the plug contacts and the OP can get on their way.

The wires are held tight by the strain relief and cannot move inside the plug so even if the wires have been weakened they will not break any strands.. As long as the wire keeps the ORIGINAL contact spot in the clamps without being disturbed there will not be any degradation.

The moment you loosen the wire and remove it from the clamps you MUST start over and cut the wire back until you find shiny copper.. The downside to this is the OP may HAVE to cut off a SUBSTANTIAL amount of 7way cord if the water has wicked back into the cord..

Your suggestion COULD end up costing the OP for not just a plug but a NEW 7 way pig tail and several hrs to change that pigtail.

RV manufacturers tend to not put any more wire on a pigtail than needed and cutting back even 6" may make it too short.

Sometimes it IS best to leave things alone if you can simply fix the EASY thing first before condemning the entire item.

Shining the contacts IS the FIRST thing that should be done, not tearing the connector apart or cutting it off and starting with a new connector..

Gdetrailer wrote:

rhagfo wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
RELAX FOLKS, the contacts ARE still there.

No need to just replace because of some corrosion.

You CAN fix that easily without resorting to cutting off the connector and putting a new one on..

Take some 240 grit sandpaper and a flat blade screw driver, wrap some of the sand paper around the blade of the screw driver.

Then SCRUB the contacts until all the corrosion is gone and you have shiny contact surface showing. The screw driver allows you to put pressure on the contacts.

Alternately, you can possibly also use FINGERNAIL EMERY BOARDS if they are not to thick, you may need to trim the width of the boards to fit into the slots.

Now, once you have the contacts shined up, you CAN protect them by putting some NO ALOX which is a electrical grease formulated to prevent corrosion to electrical connections.

IF you cannot get the contacts to shine or they crumble when cleaning THEN it is time to replace..

If I replaced mine every time they get a little dull I would have to buy the ends by the case..

Sorry, before I would go to this much effort, I would replace with nice new clean zero corrosion. You still don’t know how corroded the screw terminals are for the $10ish that the plug end cost way better and easier!

So what YOU are saying is that it IS easier to CUT the plug off, strip back the outside jacket, then strip off insulation off of each of the 7 wires, put the wires through the replacement cover/shell, then match and insert each of the wires into the correct places, tighten the screws, then put the cover/shell over the connector then tighten the wire clamp, taking a half hr of time to do so..

Rather than simply taking a small piece of $.05 sheet of sand paper and a screw driver and scratch off the tarnish off of 7 contacts all taking a mere 30 seconds....



I am sorry, but replacing that plug IS stupid if you did not try to clean the contacts first..

Brass IS going to OXIDIZE (IE tarnish, corrode)just from the moisture in the air. Shining the contacts via sand paper is an easy and cheap way to restore good electrical contact with no need what so ever to replace the plug.

Well not all the STUPID, as I would look inside anyway to see how far the corrosion has gone, likely the ends on the wires and terminals.