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vlopddap's avatar
vlopddap
Explorer
Mar 11, 2015

Cost estimation full re-caulking aluminium roof (16 feet tt)

I just wanted to be sure to not get fooled by a dishonest dealer or something like that on the cost estimation... just need your opinion here! :-)

My TT is entering its 5th camping season and all the caulk on the roof is black/green with A LOT of mildew and some obvious wear. No way adding fresh caulk over that******will adhere... there's no leak by now, but I think this year is the year of a full re-caulking job from scratch on the roof.

My TT is a 16 feet but the roof itself is 13 feet long. Moreover I don't have a roof A/C, just 2 standard 14x14 vents + 2 tank vent. The roof is a 1 piece aluminium roof.

I think the job will be to remove all the old caulk, then put new Dicor self levelling lap sealant everywhere.

For a professional (and honest) RV shop, how much time (hours or labor) it should take to accomplish that kind of work on a tiny trailer like mine? Or how much should be the job overall (parts & labor)?

Thank you!!

19 Replies

  • Don't put all your faith in this forum (or my post even) but...

    Dicor does not dry rock hard, as you already found out but the prior poster will go to their grave arguing.

    Scrapping away and getting a clean surface is something that can damage a roof if not done right. So you're right about if you don't feel comfortable doing it, DON'T.

    Using tape may void your 10 year warranty. Tape for some reason is real big in the virtual world, not so much when you're on the road.

    I'm guessing the RV shop will just clean and touch up. They'll use a bucket of soapy water, and a brush. When that's done they'll use 10% bleach water and brush the Dicor again. Wait a day to dry and then touch up. Two to four tubes of Dicror, and two hours to apply. You can figure how much labor to clean.

    Now if they pull all the Dicor off and reapply, I would guess for me to do that it would be 15-25 minutes per running foot plus materials. Figure out how much time and times it by the shop labor rate.

    Last note is I might even check on what can be done not to void any warranty you may still have left on your roof. You know the old saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
  • Fiverwheel wrote:
    On a one piece roof all there is to reseal is around your vents and along the edges. Eternabond is the quickest, most effective and longest lasting fix. There are instructional videos on YouTube that should set your mind at ease as to the process.


    Don't laugh on me, but do I need to scrub the Dicor sealant before applying the Eternabond tape on the roof surround and around the vents?
  • On a one piece roof all there is to reseal is around your vents and along the edges. Eternabond is the quickest, most effective and longest lasting fix. There are instructional videos on YouTube that should set your mind at ease as to the process.
  • Blackdiamond wrote:


    If you can do mechanical/electrical you can seal the roof, A dealer is just going to have the guy he pays the cheapest hourly rate go up there with a putty knife, scrape off some of the old and put some new dicor over it. They are not going to take a highly skilled tech (expensive) and put them on a roof for a job any unskilled laborer can do.

    I would go a different route and use eternabond


    Eternabond? You mean to use this product instead of any Dicor self-levelling lap sealant or in addition to? I have a 1-piece aluminium roof remember. I was thinking the Eternabond is more to repair rubber roof... or something like that?
  • vlopddap wrote:
    donn0128 wrote:
    Cost? Depends on you! DIY it will cost you a days labor, several tubes of Dicor self leveling caulk, a large bottle of cleaner. Pay someone because you either cant or too lazy figure 400 dollars or more.


    I would not say "too lazy" for.. just not skilled enough to. I can do any mechanics and electrical job on a RV or a car, but I am not so confident about sealing the roof myself.


    If you can do mechanical/electrical you can seal the roof, A dealer is just going to have the guy he pays the cheapest hourly rate go up there with a putty knife, scrape off some of the old and put some new dicor over it. They are not going to take a highly skilled tech (expensive) and put them on a roof for a job any unskilled laborer can do.

    I would go a different route and use eternabond
  • donn0128 wrote:
    Cost? Depends on you! DIY it will cost you a days labor, several tubes of Dicor self leveling caulk, a large bottle of cleaner. Pay someone because you either cant or too lazy figure 400 dollars or more.


    I would not say "too lazy" for.. just not skilled enough to. I can do any mechanics and electrical job on a RV or a car, but I am not so confident about sealing the roof myself.
  • Cost? Depends on you! DIY it will cost you a days labor, several tubes of Dicor self leveling caulk, a large bottle of cleaner. Pay someone because you either cant or too lazy figure 400 dollars or more.
  • Cloud Dancer wrote:
    It depends on whether it was previously sealed with self-leveling caulk (and it's hard as a rock). And, whether they are going to try removing this rock-hard goop.


    Definitely look like the Dicor self levelling lap sealant. It's the original sealing out of the KZ Sportsmen factory. It's a very clean job and the amount of sealant is not exaggerated. The sealant is pretty soft too (when you touch it).
  • It depends on whether it was previously sealed with self-leveling caulk (and it's hard as a rock). And, whether they are going to try removing this rock-hard goop.

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