Costco GC2 spec
I decided to replace the old GC2 batteries (4 years old). Costco's GC2's are now labeled Interstate Batteries. There isn't much data on the battery, just RC = 107. A "real" Interstate battery that ...
Forum Discussion
And if this was not a challenge in itself, take the 13.8V "house voltage" from the stock house power supply and charger. I timed it once on my old coach and it takes from 3-4 days with that device charging full time to totally charge up a bank of 4 GC2s, so for the most part the idea of running the generator to do any charging to speak of is quite a laughable endeavor. I wonder how many gallons of petro are wasted on attempting just such?
I also have a relative who not long ago went to AM Solar with this challenge (to rapid charge off the generator) and they sold them a whole new house power supply with a little green "boost button". Turns out the boost part of the device only lasted a couple of months. From what I can tell the function apparently of this button was to raise the 13.8 to 14.2. Today this unit appears stuck at 14.2. (Called them and they suggested bringing it in, driving across the US for the repair - right) Turns out this device only operated for a couple of months and now it is stuck at boost (I assume) or alternator level voltage. Not good for the constant shore power situations if everything I have read is true, yet I wonder if everything I have read is true then why is 14.2V auto industry approved as OK and why then are all 13.8 house power supplies not set to 14.2Vt? Likely that the engine is expected to run on an average more like "not all the time" and the gross guess by the auto mfg. standard is hoping it's the right amount on average for the average amount of time.
To further complicate my own situation, I was sold two dissimilar solar charge controllers to match my dissimilar sized panels. I have found if the solar controller is exclusively "in charge" of managing my bank (no generator or engine running) the solar controller will take my bank up to about 14.5 and hold it there by about noon each day (assuming usage of only a few lights and laptop). For how long would the controllers keep the voltage at 14.5 with no load? I haven't had it that long yet and used no power to really test it.
Then there is the issue where my solar controller "goes to sleep" when it sees the measly 13.8V coming out of the house battery eliminator or the somehow strange 13.9 that is all I can get out of my engine alternator via #2 cable when it is supposed to be 14.2V (and other engines show 14.2 on the same meter).
And then there is the worry with all these chargers and controllers feeding into the same battery bank, what else does go on when the voltage of one outpaces another? Are they all reverse-feed-back protected? And just like the weaker than weak house battery charger's 13.8V coming "live" also serves to put to sleep my solar controller from its typically reaching the 14.5V, I have to ask what else puts what else's regulator to sleep to the point I may not be charging my batteries at near the charging capacity I already have or where I might be waiting 3 days to see a full charge with all the charging devices I now own banging away at the same time and fighting with each other.
Confusing and frustrating stuff!
I also have a relative who not long ago went to AM Solar with this challenge (to rapid charge off the generator) and they sold them a whole new house power supply with a little green "boost button". Turns out the boost part of the device only lasted a couple of months. From what I can tell the function apparently of this button was to raise the 13.8 to 14.2. Today this unit appears stuck at 14.2. (Called them and they suggested bringing it in, driving across the US for the repair - right) Turns out this device only operated for a couple of months and now it is stuck at boost (I assume) or alternator level voltage. Not good for the constant shore power situations if everything I have read is true, yet I wonder if everything I have read is true then why is 14.2V auto industry approved as OK and why then are all 13.8 house power supplies not set to 14.2Vt? Likely that the engine is expected to run on an average more like "not all the time" and the gross guess by the auto mfg. standard is hoping it's the right amount on average for the average amount of time.
To further complicate my own situation, I was sold two dissimilar solar charge controllers to match my dissimilar sized panels. I have found if the solar controller is exclusively "in charge" of managing my bank (no generator or engine running) the solar controller will take my bank up to about 14.5 and hold it there by about noon each day (assuming usage of only a few lights and laptop). For how long would the controllers keep the voltage at 14.5 with no load? I haven't had it that long yet and used no power to really test it.
Then there is the issue where my solar controller "goes to sleep" when it sees the measly 13.8V coming out of the house battery eliminator or the somehow strange 13.9 that is all I can get out of my engine alternator via #2 cable when it is supposed to be 14.2V (and other engines show 14.2 on the same meter).
And then there is the worry with all these chargers and controllers feeding into the same battery bank, what else does go on when the voltage of one outpaces another? Are they all reverse-feed-back protected? And just like the weaker than weak house battery charger's 13.8V coming "live" also serves to put to sleep my solar controller from its typically reaching the 14.5V, I have to ask what else puts what else's regulator to sleep to the point I may not be charging my batteries at near the charging capacity I already have or where I might be waiting 3 days to see a full charge with all the charging devices I now own banging away at the same time and fighting with each other.
Confusing and frustrating stuff!
