Costco GC2 spec
I decided to replace the old GC2 batteries (4 years old). Costco's GC2's are now labeled Interstate Batteries. There isn't much data on the battery, just RC = 107. A "real" Interstate battery that ...
Forum Discussion
OK, thanks for all the replies. Still piecing this together.
First of all a clarification. I don't sleep with the generator running, I fall asleep at inopportune times as I age (LOL) and didn't want to fall asleep with my battery on a high voltage charge, but the timer will take care of that.
Now what I am understanding so far is that the acceptable amps of the charge can go up to 80 or so for a 2-GC2 220 (or so) AH battery set in series (right?). If so are you saying the difference in a high amp charge, say 80A vs 35A, might only cut off 10-15 minutes or so of the charge cycle?
And again my only experience with using brute force charging is with a large scale automotive roller charger with a 225A charge/boost/start setting. And also having never taken the time to actually measure the voltage, which I know is constant with these old things, the auto's lights have always been my indicator of what is happening because they seem to double in brightness when I hit this setting and I always cringe a little wondering what I am doing to the battery and electronics when I am forced to use one of these. (Noting that I am never actually forced but more-so in a pinch for time.) Never sure what or if I am doing damage with this commonly used device but I do know it certainly makes the battery get up and dance. I also know the charge it provides is only good for a few engine rotations which also means there is much more work to be done while driving down the road charging.
So in essence I am looking for somewhere between the automotive super amp charge and slapping a 2A charger on the bank and coming back in a week or so (for a 220AH battery bank). I do know that watching the amp meter on one of these automotive chargers, one can actually see the amp scale peg out for about a minute and then keep falling lower until the battery has taken on enough of a charge to whirl the starter which usually takes around 3-5 minutes to reach a great enough charge if the battery is not already damaged from being discharged for too long). Again also known is that whatever voltage the automotive brute force charger is putting out remains constant because it is not "smart". And with this all I am saying is that watching an amp meter shows the principal you are describing, the fall off of required charging amps during the charge cycle and quite clearly. And the same thing happens on the small chargers, only more slowly.
And with all this I believe I answered my own question after thinking things through. Still if all the above is correct, the question remains how to proceed with configuration. For what I need (rapid charging without too much damage followed by 24 hours of battery-only use) I am wondering what benefits I would receive from adding one of the 4 stage smart chargers if I am just primarily going to be doing periodic "boosts" of an hour or two a day while letting a solar system do it's thing from a partial shade or cloudy day situation that I am typically in. The next question is should I simply add the boost charger instead of also adding a 4 stage smart charger or just rely on the existing house power supply when I am on shore power and use the boost charger all the rest of the time I am on the single charge and all day run down cycle of boon-docking.
First of all a clarification. I don't sleep with the generator running, I fall asleep at inopportune times as I age (LOL) and didn't want to fall asleep with my battery on a high voltage charge, but the timer will take care of that.
Now what I am understanding so far is that the acceptable amps of the charge can go up to 80 or so for a 2-GC2 220 (or so) AH battery set in series (right?). If so are you saying the difference in a high amp charge, say 80A vs 35A, might only cut off 10-15 minutes or so of the charge cycle?
And again my only experience with using brute force charging is with a large scale automotive roller charger with a 225A charge/boost/start setting. And also having never taken the time to actually measure the voltage, which I know is constant with these old things, the auto's lights have always been my indicator of what is happening because they seem to double in brightness when I hit this setting and I always cringe a little wondering what I am doing to the battery and electronics when I am forced to use one of these. (Noting that I am never actually forced but more-so in a pinch for time.) Never sure what or if I am doing damage with this commonly used device but I do know it certainly makes the battery get up and dance. I also know the charge it provides is only good for a few engine rotations which also means there is much more work to be done while driving down the road charging.
So in essence I am looking for somewhere between the automotive super amp charge and slapping a 2A charger on the bank and coming back in a week or so (for a 220AH battery bank). I do know that watching the amp meter on one of these automotive chargers, one can actually see the amp scale peg out for about a minute and then keep falling lower until the battery has taken on enough of a charge to whirl the starter which usually takes around 3-5 minutes to reach a great enough charge if the battery is not already damaged from being discharged for too long). Again also known is that whatever voltage the automotive brute force charger is putting out remains constant because it is not "smart". And with this all I am saying is that watching an amp meter shows the principal you are describing, the fall off of required charging amps during the charge cycle and quite clearly. And the same thing happens on the small chargers, only more slowly.
And with all this I believe I answered my own question after thinking things through. Still if all the above is correct, the question remains how to proceed with configuration. For what I need (rapid charging without too much damage followed by 24 hours of battery-only use) I am wondering what benefits I would receive from adding one of the 4 stage smart chargers if I am just primarily going to be doing periodic "boosts" of an hour or two a day while letting a solar system do it's thing from a partial shade or cloudy day situation that I am typically in. The next question is should I simply add the boost charger instead of also adding a 4 stage smart charger or just rely on the existing house power supply when I am on shore power and use the boost charger all the rest of the time I am on the single charge and all day run down cycle of boon-docking.
