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Country_RVer's avatar
Country_RVer
Explorer
Jul 03, 2016

country water / anode / Suburban / smelly water ?'n

Hi, we stored our Travel Trailer (Suburban 10 gal water tank) for 2 years and am now camping with it, have had it set up about 6 weeks.

We're in a private campground that has a well.

The cold water smells a little bit like iron, as it will in this part of Sask Canada.

The hot water reeks of sulphur.

Pulled the anode, it's pretty well toast.

However: replacing the anode with another Suburban anode will just continue having the country well water react with the magnesium and we'll still get the sulphur stink.

Plumber friend suggested not to use the anode. Of coure then the water heater (steel/glass lined) will corrode and not last very long. Not to mention no warranty however it's a 2013 trailer so prob don't have any warranty left.

What's in this site makes sense http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/Troubleshooting/stinky-water-in-hot-water-heaters.html

but I'd like to combine it with RV-ers knowledge.

Right now we've turned off the heater and flushed it clean and stopped the direct water and poured 24 oz bleach in the 40 gallon holding tank and ran it through the system and are letting it sit 2 days. (Hydrogen peroxide would work too and is safer as/and doesn't require as much flushing after but we had bleach on hand and are ready to flush many times after)

The question is what would you do? putting the magnesium anode will repeat the sulfur smell process, yet not using an anode will corrode the tank. Do we bite the bullet and use a Powered anode? (http://www.watertechonline.com/replacing-anodes-getting-rid-of-odor/ was the site I read)

If so, where would I find a powered anode to fit a Suburban heater?

ideas/ help appreciated. I read previous forums here on this and have read every solution but am still not knowing what to do with all the answers out there. Thank you (collectively) for your time.
  • Data in = data out. Crappy data in = crappy data out. Crappy water in = crappy water out. Changing the anode rod, switching from magnesium to aluminum or zinc, or not using one at all, is going to make little difference at all when it's the water that's the source of the problem. :R Obviously, it's not the answer you want to hear but just as obvious it is the answer - better water in. :W
  • My original magnesium rod lasted two years with no odor before it was used up. Replaced it with alum/zinc. After 5 there was no odor until this year. Then odor became pretty bad. But barely any of metal rod gone. That makes me believe it was not doing much sacrificing. Replaced it with another magnesium rod and no odor ..... yet.

    The rods are not expensive. I would replace it with another magnesium rod and see if the odor returns. If so, then look at other options.
  • OK I've found a Canadian location that will sell a Zinc anode rod that is universal for Suburbans (answered my own question) - but thanks anyhow - and thought I'd post this reply in case someone comes back and says they've tried them and for --- reason it doesn't work. or don't buy it because --- (please post)

    :)
  • Hi, Bruce; that first link I provided in my question indicates aluminum anodes will also react with the water,

    it says: "aluminum/zinc alloy anode will solve the problem. The zinc is a key ingredient, since pure aluminum anodes will also reek to high heaven."

    However it goes on to mention the types of anodes for home water heaters. Does anyone know if Aluminum/zinc alloy anodes are available for RV's or have tried them?

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