DC-DC Charging ?
When you add a DC-DC charger from the truck as in several threads about that, does that put the house batts in parallel with the engine batt? (as with normal "alternator charging" via 7-pin) Or is...
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"One line to charge the RV from the vehicle when ignition is on and one from RV to charge the vehicle from the RV.."
As is, the truck and camper batts are in parallel with the 7-pin connected whether or not the ignition is on. I left the 7-pin connected for the signal lights etc, but disconnected the charge line so now no "alternator charging".
At home parked for a while, I have a maintenance charger that holds at 13.4v forever, plugged into 120v and also the camper is plugged into 120 for the converter to float the camper batts.
With the Renogy, all I am doing is putting it between the camper batts and the camper's 7-pin, which stays connected to the truck's.
Instead of the ignition on/off trigger as designed for it, I will have 12v to it and I can put a switch on that line so my ignition trigger will be manual instead of automatic. Otherwise I would have to undo the 7-pin when parked
Your relay idea would make that auto instead of manual.
If I only had the trickle charger on the engine batt and left the Renogy on (no relay) I could float the camper batts too without plugging the camper's shore power in for the converter, BUT-that would make the voltage at the camper batts 14.7--EXCEPT the Renogy has a three-stage profile where it stays in Absorb for three hours and then drops to 13.x, so I suppose that would work...Except--:) -- leaving the camper fridge on 120v while home before a trip wouldn't be possible.
So--all same routine as now, except for my manual switch on the "ignition wire" to play with.
As is, the truck and camper batts are in parallel with the 7-pin connected whether or not the ignition is on. I left the 7-pin connected for the signal lights etc, but disconnected the charge line so now no "alternator charging".
At home parked for a while, I have a maintenance charger that holds at 13.4v forever, plugged into 120v and also the camper is plugged into 120 for the converter to float the camper batts.
With the Renogy, all I am doing is putting it between the camper batts and the camper's 7-pin, which stays connected to the truck's.
Instead of the ignition on/off trigger as designed for it, I will have 12v to it and I can put a switch on that line so my ignition trigger will be manual instead of automatic. Otherwise I would have to undo the 7-pin when parked
Your relay idea would make that auto instead of manual.
If I only had the trickle charger on the engine batt and left the Renogy on (no relay) I could float the camper batts too without plugging the camper's shore power in for the converter, BUT-that would make the voltage at the camper batts 14.7--EXCEPT the Renogy has a three-stage profile where it stays in Absorb for three hours and then drops to 13.x, so I suppose that would work...Except--:) -- leaving the camper fridge on 120v while home before a trip wouldn't be possible.
So--all same routine as now, except for my manual switch on the "ignition wire" to play with.
