Dead battery so quickly?

We just had this with a brand new battery. It was defective and returned for a full refund. New batter works fine.

OP here.

I think I may have figured out what the problem is.
It's not the battery. I did not charge it before bringing it in and it was fully charged and had a CCA higher than the sticker.

I think it is my clamps. They are top post type, and I think they are corroded. Reason I think this is due to the fact that jumping the battery from clamping on the outside of the clamps gave me power.

I am going to switch them to the ones that have the washer like connector that the bolt keeps it down to the battery. If that doesn't work, I will be hunting for more ideas.

If the bulb stays dark then there is no parasitic load, at the time of the test.

That is not to say that there was NOT a load, a light left on accidentally, an intermittent short, etc.

My feeling is there IS some sort of load you were / are unaware of. If the battery was bad it would not have appeared to be fully charged and performed as such for a few hours.

JaxDad wrote:
Use an “old school” ammeter, rated for unlimited current and dead cheap to buy, almost anywhere.

Get a 12 volt sealed beam headlight or tractor work light bulb and a bit of wire. With a fresh battery (or not) and everything turned off, hook up the positive side of the battery, then connect the bulb IN BETWEEN the negative side of the battery and the negative lead.

If there is NO parasitic loads, the bulb will NOT light up, not even a little bit.

If the bulb even starts to glow, there is something drawing power. The brighter the bulb lights up, the bigger the draw.

Class dismissed.

That sounds like a simple thing.

So, lets say I use a sealed beam and it is dark. Lets say after that I stick my multimeter on it and also see nothing. What then? Can I just assume the battery really was bad?

Use an “old school” ammeter, rated for unlimited current and dead cheap to buy, almost anywhere.

Get a 12 volt sealed beam headlight or tractor work light bulb and a bit of wire. With a fresh battery (or not) and everything turned off, hook up the positive side of the battery, then connect the bulb IN BETWEEN the negative side of the battery and the negative lead.

If there is NO parasitic loads, the bulb will NOT light up, not even a little bit.

If the bulb even starts to glow, there is something drawing power. The brighter the bulb lights up, the bigger the draw.

Class dismissed.

Most meters are only rated for 10 amps in series with the load. Over that, say good by to meter!

I would get the battery charged, then the next time you are at the trailer go make sure everything is turned off. Then hook up the positive cable to the battery and run the negative through your multimeter set for amps and see if there is any current flowing. If current is flowing start pulling fuses until the flow stops.

Those are fitment codes
Group 27 is 14
Group 24 is 13

Costco batteries/ fitment codes

Costco's group 24 is a code 14 battery.

Wonder what a code 24 battery might be?

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Is there something preventing the charging and testing of the battery.?
My first comment addressed the chances of a parasitic draw.

The second comment recommended charging and testing free by a parts store

Did you find any of my responses offensive?

Assuming I am unable to give information when it was clear that I have diagnosed it and am stumped, not ignorant.

I do plan to bring the battery in tomorrow. ANext time I am out, I will check whether there is a parasitic draw.