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darsben1's avatar
darsben1
Explorer
Sep 13, 2017

Delamination remediation

I have a small area of delamination just below the RV refrigerator outside access panel.
If I remove the panel completely I would have room to put something in there to reglue the area. spraying would be easiest for me but I want effective. The area extends downward abut 30 inches and side to side about 24 inches.

I am looking for a relatively simple fix that I can do myself.

What are your thoughts?
I am looking for first/second hand experiences. I know how to search and look at YouTube videos on my own.
  • jdb7566 wrote:
    darsben1 wrote:
    I have a small area of delamination just below the RV refrigerator outside access panel.
    If I remove the panel completely I would have room to put something in there to reglue the area. spraying would be easiest for me but I want effective. The area extends downward abut 30 inches and side to side about 24 inches.

    I am looking for a relatively simple fix that I can do myself.

    What are your thoughts?
    I am looking for first/second hand experiences. I know how to search and look at YouTube videos on my own.

    There are no simple fixes when it comes to delamination. It's like a cancer that needs to be cut out. A new rig may be in order. I'm sure CW have many fine units for you to peruse.

    Subtle sarcasm?
    directed at me?
    directed at another entity?
  • Howdy, I have done extensive delam. repair by peeling up the filon and replacing the luan with lexan plexi glass at the same thickness, with many small holes in it to enhance the bonding. Always used Gorilla glue (which I believe is water proof once cured) I contacted gorilla and described my repair. They said the glue will likely last longer then the substrate. So far (3 yrs) all ok. Like many have said, it must be clamped securely or will bulge out from the glue swell. Suggest expanding cargo bar or even expanding shower curtain rod against a building or strong fence post. Also consider some type of polyolefin based release film under the foot of the clamping bar "foot" so it will not stick to the repair. Nothing sticks to polyethelene or polypropylene.
  • Thank you all for your answers. I will keep checking the thread for any other input
  • Remediation begun. Took off the vent on Thursday airing out Delamination area. I guess I am going to go the epoxy route from West marine.
    Building braces so that will be done before hand.
    Used construction adhesive to mount wood backing onto thin Luan that covers Styrofoam. This way I can use SS screws and screw into something substantial. The area cannot be seen once vent cover is on.
    Pouring epoxy tomorrow
  • Gjac's avatar
    Gjac
    Explorer III
    Make sure the substrate is dry before bonding. Several things you can do, one is to put wedges between the outer Filon skin and the debonded substrate and park it is the sun for several days, use a hair dryer, or put some acetone in the area it will aid it drying the area as the solvent flashes off. If you use a polyurethane adhesive like Gorilla glue it is much more forgiving than epoxy when it comes to moisture because water will activate it. A lot of moisture will really activate it and it will foam rapidly causing large bubbles leaving a weaker bond. I said all this because when I fixed mine I could not get all the moisture out and used the polyurethane adhesive . It held for about 5 or 6 years and the disbonding came back. The other side held for about 9 years. Epoxy will be a stronger bond but too much moisture will weaken or prevent a good bond. I think HD sells a moisture meter that will give you a reading of the moisture content. Good luck on your project.
  • It was easier than I thought to pour the epoxy. I read a tip that putting the 2 parts of the epoxy in HOT water would lower the viscosity. I bought a funnel and some plastic tubing. Mixed 16 ounces at a time and used the funnel with tube to pour in the epoxy. I used a marble rolling pin on the fiberglass skin to distribute the epoxy inside. I have the braces in place and plan to leave them there 24 hours. More later
  • What epoxy did you use? I believe you used something from West Marine but could you provide the name of the epoxy please?

    Thanks,
  • Unveiled repair and boy am I pleased.
    The west 105 A resin and hardener seems to have really done the job.
    I have caulked the area well with a matching caulk and reinstalled the vent using SS screws. The wood I put behind the repaired area really allowed the SS screw to have something to grab.
    Now to get on the road in a few days and see how it goes.
    To those contemplating doing this I found it very easy and my skill level is not the highest

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