devices for surge protection

This image is INADEQUATE but...

Suppose it represents line-to-neutral

Now we need another buss.

To earth ground. Another horizontal line BELOW the neutral buss

Three horizontal lines. Common buss wires.

The second string MOVs, TVSs, and (not shown) Gas Discharge Tubes

Need to be connected to LINE at top

JUMP over top the center neutral buss and connect to bottom buss. Earth ground.

MOV devices are naturally bi-directional, as are Gas Discharge Tube Devices.

But TVSs. Transient Voltage Suppressors MUST MUST MUST be specified a particular type: BI-DIRECTIONAL


If there is enough interest in this, I'll shop on eBay and post the seller links for the correct rated devices. REMEMBER minimum 4 devices except GDTs EACH buss. Four, L-N and four L-Ground 20 mm MOVs preferably 1500 watt TVSs. Six each would be better yet. Yes, fuses are vital for TVS circuit protection.

Apologies for no E=MC2 formulas or equations. I've seen enough aimed at novices to last five lifetimes. Should ONLY be used for defense if a calculation or component value is questioned or challenged by another forum member.

Hi MEX,

I did email you my mailing address. Doggone it.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Dangit Don, months ago I PM'ed you for a mail-to address. Last week I dragged one to the border, to the US mail post office parking lot and to my UPS Store #250. Then I dragged it back to Mexico. @#$%^&! :)

Dangit Don, months ago I PM'ed you for a mail-to address. Last week I dragged one to the border, to the US mail post office parking lot and to my UPS Store #250. Then I dragged it back to Mexico. @#$%^&! :)

Who can build me one of Mex's surge devices?

I don't have perfect control of voltage but the "steps" are good enough to keep my RV running well. I only have MOV (just like PI and SG) at the moment.

A Surge can last for several seconds and if that happens.. Well, let me put it this way. I had close to a dozen of those things scattered about when the power company screwed up and sent me at least double the proper voltage (A Major Surge) and it sounded a bit like the annual fireworks celebration in that room as they went off like firecrackers, all destroyed, Lost a motor, a computer power supply and all my "Surge Strips"

A person is supposed to be "Smarter Than The Problem"

VOLTAGE CORRECTION

P L U S

SPIKE SUPPRESSION

is the way to go. Now please tell me who offers BOTH in one package that costs less than my entire neighborhood.

MOVs alone offer inadequate protection against high amplitude (ms) transients.

This is why I have a $16,000 Sola protecting my umbilical connection structure.

Hi wa8yxm,

But the PI top of the line unit apparently ONLY uses mov technology. I can't imagine them using more in the bottom of the line unit. Please correct me if I'm wrong (I learn new things that way).

I'm not happy with either companies low voltage cut out. SG is 102 and PI 104 volts. My comfort zone is 108 and no lower than 107. Plus the autoformer deals with low voltage quite effectively.

I find low voltage endemic at campgrounds and often at private homes.

High voltage is pretty rare and the Sola basic does offer some protection up to 155 volts. I'm not sure what happens above that as the testing unit I used topped out at 133 volts (input to Sola)

PI does have that lifetime warranty which is a great selling point.

wa8yxm wrote:
Ok, Surge protection 101
THere are two types of "Surge Guards" one really is.

FIrst there are assorted MOV types. The common six outlet "Surge Protector" you find in stores all voer the place is this kind of device, The low cost one from Progressive INdustries is this king of device.. Hughes Autoformers contain them and I see several suggestions for them above.. These are NOT SURGE GUARDS. they are spike supressors (A spike typically lasts less than 1/50th of a second)

A Surge can last for several seconds and if that happens.. Well, let me put it this way. I had close to a dozen of those things scattered about when the power company screwed up and sent me at least double the proper voltage (A Major Surge) and it sounded a bit like the annual fireworks celebration in that room as they went off like firecrackers, all destroyed, Lost a motor, a computer power supply and all my "Surge Strips"


A true Surge Guard such as the Progressive industries HW-50c (or 30c Or the PT-50/30C) senses high voltage (or low voltage) and cuts off power to your RV, thus protecting Motors (A/C) heat elements (Fridge and water heater) and all sorts of electronics (Converter, TV, Microwave, Control boards, Sat receivers, Radios and so on) Highly recommended

I like the HW models cause they are Hard wired and thus you do not forget them.

wa8yxm wrote:
Ok, Surge protection 101
THere are two types of "Surge Guards" one really is. .

I think you should have expanded your list to 3. the multi-function surge guards that do much more than detect surges. unfortunately some folks here buy the $90 version instead of the better $250 and up one.
bumpy

Ok, Surge protection 101
THere are two types of "Surge Guards" one really is.

FIrst there are assorted MOV types. The common six outlet "Surge Protector" you find in stores all voer the place is this kind of device, The low cost one from Progressive INdustries is this king of device.. Hughes Autoformers contain them and I see several suggestions for them above.. These are NOT SURGE GUARDS. they are spike supressors (A spike typically lasts less than 1/50th of a second)

A Surge can last for several seconds and if that happens.. Well, let me put it this way. I had close to a dozen of those things scattered about when the power company screwed up and sent me at least double the proper voltage (A Major Surge) and it sounded a bit like the annual fireworks celebration in that room as they went off like firecrackers, all destroyed, Lost a motor, a computer power supply and all my "Surge Strips"


A true Surge Guard such as the Progressive industries HW-50c (or 30c Or the PT-50/30C) senses high voltage (or low voltage) and cuts off power to your RV, thus protecting Motors (A/C) heat elements (Fridge and water heater) and all sorts of electronics (Converter, TV, Microwave, Control boards, Sat receivers, Radios and so on) Highly recommended

I like the HW models cause they are Hard wired and thus you do not forget them.

Nah, they're 200V 14mm MOVs. I couldn't resist. The distance/reaction time of the TVS (
Placement of the board may be significant. Entry or service drop is ideal. But then I have some 5K Joule devices :) I would be a sucker for 20K watt TVSs but oh what the heck - I still have most of a pallet left of isolation transformers.

For an RV I would advise 2X MOVs and 2X TVSs. Single GST is sufficient. Encourage lightning to establish a route of ionization as far away as possible given the tight quarters of an RV.

Coincidence. Jesús told me this morning my lightning suppressor sustained a direct hit via the X1, X2, X3, L0 distribution network which is a couple of Km in length. The area single phase distribution network. The hit vaporized the service drop, 6 AWG wires, jumped the bait gap (1/8") to the diversion and vaporized the 6 gauge drain cable and most of the 1/2" grounding rod. I'm trying to get WhatsApp images and will post. Thank god for 14" dual-pole lever throw switches. Open circuit that is. Saved a lot of house wiring. Appliances were all unplugged while I'm gone. Apparently the strike occurred within 30 meters of my service drop. Blew the meter into shards. Siemen's breaker and meter base looks like a grenade hit it, says my son-in-law. Massive grid appliance damage.

Mex, Great you still have one good hand! Could you please, at your discretion, post up a drawing of the circuit? I'm thinking the components are placed in order of the speed of the reaction but that's a WAG. I see you also have a couple of caps thrown in for good measure.