Dielectric grease for 30 amp plug and receptacle?

Sounds like the connector on your trailer needs to be replaced. The contacts are no longer tight.

Im a fan of dielectric grease but only use it on connectors that rarely get used.

I picture the trailer connector attracting too much dirt if you used grease. I dont think its supposed to be used for lubricity. Its more the absence of oxygen and moisture. Keeps things from corroding.

Plugged into what? You can't go around replacing every park connector. If the site has 50 amp available consider using an adapter.

For a superior replacement plug try this one:
https://www.progressiveindustries.net/tt-30p

Start turning off the breaker before plugging in and avoid outlets that already have burn marks.

What usually happens is people plug in hot, this causes arcing as the metal comes into contact and starts to leave burn marks on the prongs. These burn marks act as weak insulators which increases the heat and the next time you plug in, the arcing is worse...eventually it reaches the point where you've burnt up the plug.

By turning off the breaker, there is no arcing at the plug. If you do see burn marks use very fine sandpaper to clean off the burn marks, so they don't compound the issue.

Also, keep an eye on the voltage and don't do a continuous draw of more than around 24amps. A lot of people try to use all 30amps and that will overheat things. Reality is the 30amp outlet is only rated for 24amp continuous draw.

Show a pic of what you are having issues with.

Dielectric grease doesn't conduct electricity and probably shouldn't be used on electrical plugs. I suggest using a conductive grease such as Noalox which is inexpensive and can be picked up at any Big Box store. Hope this helps.

ksg5000 wrote:
Dielectric grease doesn't conduct electricity and probably shouldn't be used on electrical plugs. I suggest using a conductive grease such as Noalox which is inexpensive and can be picked up at any Big Box store. Hope this helps.

Thanks. I know a little about dielectric grease and wondered why some recommend it. But I did not know about Noalox. I do the breaker off thing, but if the previous hundred users connected hot, the receptacle is on its way out. Maybe what I need is a 30 amp male plug with sandpaper prongs to prep the outlet?

Dielectric grease is used OEM on sensors operating in the millivolt range.

The only electronic contact cleaner that works is

DeOxit D-100

Don't play games with the D-100 part number. It is the strongest DeOxit cleaner and you need it. Try squirting it into the receptacle slots and then onto your plug prongs. Then slip the plug in and out 20 times to rub off the corrosion.

Without disassembly this is the only thing you can do. Other contact cleaners are a farce. Let us know if this helps.

It may not be the blades, it may be that the wires come loose at the screw connections. Or, you may simply be using too much power at one time, like air and water heater and converter.

You won't hurt anything using dielectric grease or cosmoline but won't help anything either. Deoxit works for cleaning but won't help if the socket is burned or mechanically compromised.

Turn off loads and pull the CG breaker when plugging in or unplugging.

When a CG socket gets burned and loose there's nothing you can do about it. If there's a 50A socket available use a dogbone and plug into it

To The BS crowd that crows that using anything on contacts makes a connection fail.

ENGINE STARTING BATTERY

Remove both cables.
Slop on a gob of chassis grease. Cover the terminal so it looks like a stalagmite. GOOP on the grease. Especially INSIDE the clamp.

Now do the stud. We want a quarter pound of cheap axle grease glopping everywhere.

Replace the cables onto the battery posts and tighten the nuts on the clamps.

Wipe your hands then sit behind the wheel.

Laugh your butt off as you engage the starter.

Keep laughing the joke will be on you.

I've made hundreds of dollars with armchair experts doing this.

Start your engine over and over. -40F to 122F over and over.

For micro contacts on computer and radio circuits USB connections I use the strongest dose of Caig DeOxit products. Both the Red D100 and the strongest Blue anti corrosion fluid.

Anything demanded as essential inventory by manufacturers of the F22, the B2 the F18Y and the F35 plus the military that flies them is good enough for me. The stuff is impressive as hell and I'm no easy target.

I must be one of the most notorious disbelievers on this planet. And CAIG prodducts flat WORK with no BS. The blue preservative prevented splashing salt water rust on high carbon steel. And it's a 100% Made In USA product. It can take the place of silicone grease WHEN it's not a question of sealing.