Dilemma - to pay or not to pay?
Folks: I had an issue with a vehicle that I could not figure out; I'm a pretty competent home mechanic and rarely take anything to a shop. The shop where I took it spent 4 hours on the vehicle and...
Forum Discussion
Recently we were enroute to Idaho after a roundtrip from Los Angeles to the Grand Canyon and back home with no problems. When we hit the Baker Grade the engine would loose power as soon as the secondary's on the QJ opened. If I floored the petal the engine stalled. I have spent hundreds maybe even thousands trying to solve this problem and keep saying it is not the ignition or carb the engine is starving out. I specifically asked the last shop to check the fuel pressure after the Holley regulator. Got a call that the problem was solved and to pick up the rig. We drove 100 miles in the towed and the mechanic/manager told me it was the alternator. Test drive was fine, hooked up took off for home and got less than 10 miles and the problem returned. We were going up hill against about a 40 mph headwind. Backed off the throttle until the secondary's closed and drove home at 45 to 50 mph without a problem. I contacted a very well know speed shop in our area and the owner suggested that the problem might be the return line to the tank but as likely that the Holley regulator is the problem.
He has set me up with a gauge to test the pressure and instructions on setting the pressure. If that solves the problem or if the return line is bad, I will ask the last shop that replaced the alternator for a full refund. He did not do what I wanted and charged me $400 dollars and wanted another $200 core charge to return the alternator to me. I think he sc.... and was grasping at straws rather than fix my rig.
So in my case I asked for a test and he decided not needed and I'm going to ask for all my money back if it is the regulator. In your case the shop tried and didn't find the problem. Next time put a contingency in the estimate, "no fix, no pay".
He has set me up with a gauge to test the pressure and instructions on setting the pressure. If that solves the problem or if the return line is bad, I will ask the last shop that replaced the alternator for a full refund. He did not do what I wanted and charged me $400 dollars and wanted another $200 core charge to return the alternator to me. I think he sc.... and was grasping at straws rather than fix my rig.
So in my case I asked for a test and he decided not needed and I'm going to ask for all my money back if it is the regulator. In your case the shop tried and didn't find the problem. Next time put a contingency in the estimate, "no fix, no pay".
