After years of thinking about it, I’m about to get a solar setup. I live 5 minutes from SolarBlvd in Norco, so I will get most the stuff from them. The plan is to use the 140w Solar Cynergy panel ($175) and Morningstar Sunsaver SS-10 controller ($45-). I’ll also get the Z mounts and cable from them (after I measure to determine how much cable I need). This setup should keep my 4 6v Sam’s Club batteries topped off while in storage, and give me some replenishment when on multi-day trips.My question is regarding a display for the controller. SolorBlvd packages this panel with a Phocos controller and Phocos CMM display that supposedly shows voltage and load current (is this the same as draw?). However, I’ve read negative reviews on both Phocos devices and positive reviews on the Morningstar controller. If I go with the Morningstar controller and hide it behind a cabinet, what sort of display should I get? Keep in mind this entire setup will be approx $260-; I don‘t want to spend hundreds on a display.BTW – currently, I use a simple $20- volt meter that is plugged into one of the TV power outlets. I check it every morning. 12.3 to 12.6 is good; 12.2 or less means I need to run the generator sometime that day.

IMO you don't need any display other than the voltmeter you are already using and the way you use it. All the solar will do differently is affect those morning voltage amounts. With any luck you will go longer before they get down to 12.2.During the day you will see the voltage climb to whatever it gets to, which will tell you the solar is working ok.

I bought the $288 solar package from SolarBlvd and it included the Phocos controller. First one was defective and they sent me a second one in no time. Great customer service! But the second one gave me concerns that it wasn't working up to par so I replaced it with a morningstar....GREAT unit. I suggested to SolarBlvd that they should offer this unit as an extra cost upgrade.I recently added a Trimetric solar controller readout thingy and I love playing with it. It tells you amps in and amps out, voltage, % of bateery remaining, charge cycle and a few dozen other things that I don't really understand.......But it looks cool and is fun to play with.As the other folks said, totally not needed, but I love "info"..... :-)

It's hard to go too far wrong with a $30 (shipped) Turnigy Watt Meter from Hobbyking.com. It comes from Hong Kong so you have to allow 2-3 weeks. It only adds up to 65 amps for some reason, so like Mr Wizard here does, you can put a switch in the lead for it, and reset it every day to measure the next day's solar.I've just got one and am enjoying it. It shows amps, volts, and watts (I think) at all times, and the fourth display position cycles through time connected, minimum volts since connected, total AH, total WH, peak amps, and peak watts. That's all from memory so I could be missing something. As Wiz pointed out, the minimum volts is nice to tell you how low you started your day at. And obviously the AH tells you how much you've put back in.It's only one directional, which sounds to be okay for what you are looking to do. It does have automatic backlighting. As long as it is connected to the batteries, it will display. So that's another reason to add a switch. It installs simply, inline between controller and batteries.http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10080&aff=500143

I’ll also get the Z mounts and cable from them (after I measure to determine how much cable I need). Tell them to keep Z-mounts, those are useless for RV installations. Cable: you need 2 different kinds in different length, a cable from panel to controller AND much thicker cable from controller to battery. As to the display - you don't need it in this case. But you could get either of those, in order of increased cost and functions: 1) Turnigy $30. I think it needs a shunt and you have to re-wire or switch it when you change the mode, and it has to be near battery. But I might be wrong since don't have it.2) Victron battery monitor $1303) Trimetric battery monitor - this one will cost the same or even more than a small PWM controller with display, though will have more bells and whistles.Solar Blvd is a reputable store but they do sell cr-ap as well. Morningstar is a reputable brand, but from looking at brief description I can't see what is the bulk voltage and whether it is a 3-stage and if so what are the setpoints. Disposable Chinese electronics is getting cheaper, but raw materials are getting scarce at the same time (and this is not a coincidence). Replacing the prematurely died battery will cost you a bit.

Where is the Victron for $130? My Trimetric was around $200 by the time I paid shipping and duties and for the cable it needs to the shunt. You can get PWM controllers with V and A display for well under $100.Of course you then can't even see the stupid display because you mounted the controller up by the batteries where it belongs, which is unfortunately out of sight in many (most) rigs. So if you don't have a voltmeter you watch anyway like the OP has, maybe for another kazzilion bucks you can get a remote display for the controller--if you pay extra for the fancier controller that takes a remote--- They do want your money, so why fight it? :)

Display for PWM Controller? | Good Sam Community

RJsfishin
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
Hopefully you right, but there are connections too,.....just a thought anyway.
Sides that, I've always been an ammeter nut !
BFL13
Explorer II
Sep 16, 2013
RJ I never thought of one panel quitting out of the two in parallel. I would know because the Trimetric in amps would give me a clue as you say. But OTOH the panels are supposed to be good for twenty years or so, which should mean the chance of one quitting is not great?
RJsfishin
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
Ever heard of ebay,.....all for 15 bucks

I disagree w/ others. If your 1 of 2 panels quit, how are you going to know that w/o an ammeter ?
Snowman9000
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
Almot,

The Turnigy doesn't need a shunt. There is one built into it.

The Morningstar SunSaver is 14.4v at 77F, and is temp-corrected above and below that. Float is 13.whatever, I can't recall exactly. However, the temperature sensor is local, not remote, so the controller should be mounted near the batteries.
BFL13
Explorer II
Sep 16, 2013
Where is the Victron for $130? My Trimetric was around $200 by the time I paid shipping and duties and for the cable it needs to the shunt. You can get PWM controllers with V and A display for well under $100.

Of course you then can't even see the stupid display because you mounted the controller up by the batteries where it belongs, which is unfortunately out of sight in many (most) rigs
.

So if you don't have a voltmeter you watch anyway like the OP has, maybe for another kazzilion bucks you can get a remote display for the controller--if you pay extra for the fancier controller that takes a remote--- They do want your money, so why fight it? :)
Almot
Explorer III
Sep 16, 2013
I’ll also get the Z mounts and cable from them (after I measure to determine how much cable I need).

Tell them to keep Z-mounts, those are useless for RV installations.

Cable: you need 2 different kinds in different length, a cable from panel to controller AND much thicker cable from controller to battery.

As to the display - you don't need it in this case. But you could get either of those, in order of increased cost and functions:
1) Turnigy $30. I think it needs a shunt and you have to re-wire or switch it when you change the mode, and it has to be near battery. But I might be wrong since don't have it.
2) Victron battery monitor $130
3) Trimetric battery monitor - this one will cost the same or even more than a small PWM controller with display, though will have more bells and whistles.

Solar Blvd is a reputable store but they do sell cr-ap as well. Morningstar is a reputable brand, but from looking at brief description I can't see what is the bulk voltage and whether it is a 3-stage and if so what are the setpoints. Disposable Chinese electronics is getting cheaper, but raw materials are getting scarce at the same time (and this is not a coincidence). Replacing the prematurely died battery will cost you a bit.
Snowman9000
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
It's hard to go too far wrong with a $30 (shipped) Turnigy Watt Meter from Hobbyking.com. It comes from Hong Kong so you have to allow 2-3 weeks. It only adds up to 65 amps for some reason, so like Mr Wizard here does, you can put a switch in the lead for it, and reset it every day to measure the next day's solar.

I've just got one and am enjoying it. It shows amps, volts, and watts (I think) at all times, and the fourth display position cycles through time connected, minimum volts since connected, total AH, total WH, peak amps, and peak watts. That's all from memory so I could be missing something. As Wiz pointed out, the minimum volts is nice to tell you how low you started your day at. And obviously the AH tells you how much you've put back in.

It's only one directional, which sounds to be okay for what you are looking to do. It does have automatic backlighting. As long as it is connected to the batteries, it will display. So that's another reason to add a switch. It installs simply, inline between controller and batteries.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10080&aff=500143
Rbertalotto
Explorer
Sep 16, 2013
I bought the $288 solar package from SolarBlvd and it included the Phocos controller. First one was defective and they sent me a second one in no time. Great customer service! But the second one gave me concerns that it wasn't working up to par so I replaced it with a morningstar....GREAT unit. I suggested to SolarBlvd that they should offer this unit as an extra cost upgrade.

I recently added a Trimetric solar controller readout thingy and I love playing with it. It tells you amps in and amps out, voltage, % of bateery remaining, charge cycle and a few dozen other things that I don't really understand.......But it looks cool and is fun to play with.

As the other folks said, totally not needed, but I love "info"..... :-)
BFL13
Explorer II
Sep 16, 2013
IMO you don't need any display other than the voltmeter you are already using and the way you use it.

All the solar will do differently is affect those morning voltage amounts. With any luck you will go longer before they get down to 12.2.

During the day you will see the voltage climb to whatever it gets to, which will tell you the solar is working ok.

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