DLO Cable First Impressions
DLO is a universal label for "Diesel Locomotive" electric cable. I am very picky about the cable I use. First of all it has to be true size wire not SAE sub-size. Rope stranded which means the threads...
Forum Discussion
I will be putting a thicker wire from alternator (+) stud to common stud on battery switch, sounds like this DLO cable would fit the bill in the 2 awg size range or better.
Driving around for 10+ days now with my adjustable voltage regulator mod for the alternator has shown it does not really hold a rock steady voltage. hot idle speed, my Tach is showing as little as 500 rpms though it is computer controlled and the factory service manual says 650 at hot idle. If set at 14.4v cold, when at hot idle it can sag to 14.1. I can dial it up to get 14.4v at hot idle and then with some more rpms it goes to 14.7v and this is when the battery is full or can accept less than 20 amps to reach absorption voltage
Not a big deal, perhaps thicker cable would mitigate this somewhat.
Me wonders of the 100 watt 10 ohm resistor to trick the ECm would be better than the 50 watt. The SOB gets HOT! Hot enough for me to add a large finned heatsink.
You going for that Tall boy Lifeline GPL-30HT for the hotel Cpap Duty and moving your existing lifeline 105AH GPL-31t to Toad trunk duty?
That Toad alternator upto the task of a hungry Lifeline group31 over thick cabling?
My chrysler 50/120 alternator temp data, idling vs parked shows huge temperature rises in alternator parked and idling at 32 amps output total vs driving 25 to 40F making 55 amps output total.
The K type thermocouple mounted to my alternator has been, enlightening, though I want a better display.
Dang limited funds limiting data collection
Driving around for 10+ days now with my adjustable voltage regulator mod for the alternator has shown it does not really hold a rock steady voltage. hot idle speed, my Tach is showing as little as 500 rpms though it is computer controlled and the factory service manual says 650 at hot idle. If set at 14.4v cold, when at hot idle it can sag to 14.1. I can dial it up to get 14.4v at hot idle and then with some more rpms it goes to 14.7v and this is when the battery is full or can accept less than 20 amps to reach absorption voltage
Not a big deal, perhaps thicker cable would mitigate this somewhat.
Me wonders of the 100 watt 10 ohm resistor to trick the ECm would be better than the 50 watt. The SOB gets HOT! Hot enough for me to add a large finned heatsink.
You going for that Tall boy Lifeline GPL-30HT for the hotel Cpap Duty and moving your existing lifeline 105AH GPL-31t to Toad trunk duty?
That Toad alternator upto the task of a hungry Lifeline group31 over thick cabling?
My chrysler 50/120 alternator temp data, idling vs parked shows huge temperature rises in alternator parked and idling at 32 amps output total vs driving 25 to 40F making 55 amps output total.
The K type thermocouple mounted to my alternator has been, enlightening, though I want a better display.
Dang limited funds limiting data collection
