Does DEKA make a good UPS battery?
I took a trip yesterday down near San Diego, it was twofold. One was to replace my free Trojan T-1275 that was a golf cart reject already when I got it with a pig of a 105# UPS 145ah AGM battery from ...
Forum Discussion
Generally I try to get any lead acid battery to as high a state of charge as possible each time I charge but if I cannot, I don't freak out.
Regarding computer fans, they do not do well when a restriction is placed close behind the impeller. When I cut out the grille in front of the 60MM fan which came with the cheapowatt, airflow increased greatly and noise decreased.
Check out any fan spinning to 2k rpm or more. Put a restriction behind the impeller and the fan speeds up, moves less air and makes more noise.
Mex, back in the cheapowatt thread from a year ago, you decided the Borg's cheapowatt lids were going to be removed and tossed in the scrap bin.
As far as the most powerful 60MM dual ball bearing fan available:
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Electronics-AFB0612EH-ABF00-60x60x25mm-connector/dp/B004VSFDPE
But it is an inch thick, the 60mm fans in the cheapowatt and megawatt are only 10 mm thick.
I highly recommend cutting out the fan grille, and then one could put one of these exhausting on the outside of the case as it is too thick to fit within. So what if it appears as a Giant black square wart on the exterior. These power supplies are less than half the size of most converters already.
If one is going this far, one is better off getting a larger fan that will be quieter. Move more air and use less amperage. That 60MM fan above claims to consume 0.48 amps! for just 39CFM. This 120mm Noctua moves ~53 cfm for just 0.05 amps:
http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-Focused-Flow-Bearing/dp/B00JOCCSBE/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1441650859&sr=1-4&keywords=noctua+nf-f12
Do note that Noctua has Industrial versions of the above fan which are IP52 rated for protection against dust and moisture, they have a 2000 and a 3000 rpm version.
I have the 1500rpm version attached to my fridge condenser pushing air and my fridge performance instantly improved, and the amp draw of the Noctua is only ~40% of the Vitrifrigo provided fan. This was about 6 months of dust accumulation:
I now have a large air filter on the fridge air intake that gets dirty quick, but does not stop all the dust. Some very fine dust can still accumulate on the fan blades and condenser fins which I clean yearly.
Cutting the holes for 60 and 80MM fans on the Steel lid of my Meanwell was more difficult and time consuming than just cutting out the aluminum 60mm grille on the cheapowatt's lid, which appears nearly identical to the megawatt. Remove this restriction. Removing the megawatt lid is just 5 screws.
Static pressure ratings are more important when resistance to airflow comes into the mix.
My MeanWell has one additional 60 mm fan blowing in, and the 80MM fan sucking air out, and the MW provided 40MM fan also blows outward. When the 40MM fan does kick on, and it is Super high rpm and very loud, the 80mm fan barely exhausts anything as the super high rpm 40MM fan is just grabbing everything. The 60 and 80MM fans I added are not very powerful, but they are quiet and keep the 40MM fan from cycling on and off at just 6 amps, as occurred without the additional fans. Now it takes about 15 minutes at 40 amps output before the 40 MM fan kicks on, and below 70F ambient it will not even come on.
Always seeking improvement, I am going to try reversing the flow of the 80mm Fan, with both additional fans blowing inward and see at what point the 40Mm fan kicks off at when amps start tapering.
Also 2 of my external heatsinks can have a 60 mm fan directly screwed to the fins, and Westend also provided me with several 60mm fans when he mailed me the heatsinks last year, so I can improve heat removal even more.
I am a bit of a Muffin fan Nazi. As I type I have 6 of them running, from 80MM to 180MM. There are another another 6 which can be turned on, from 40mm to 120MM.
Mex, I recommend the Borg have one of these blowing inward:
http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Adjustment-Cooling-FM182/dp/B00VBNTB3W/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1441652141&sr=1-4&keywords=silverstone+180mm
I employ its thicker brother as an intake fan on my Van. It has been running continuously for at least 7 months now:
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Penetrator-2000rpm-Channeling-AP182/dp/B008VQ2Y2M/ref=pd_sim_sbs_147_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NRE2H4PHKR8YRYTG0GY&dpSrc=sims&dpST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_
The Silverstone fan in the first link, is a more recent offering but has impressive Specs and a better price. The included speed control is a feature I really like, but probably not necessary in your intended usage.
Computer fans vary so widely in performance, I cringe whenever I read 'just get a computer fan at radioshack'
Look at the technology that Noctua has provided with their fans:
Noctua NF-f12 features
Paying good money for a sleeve bearing fan with flat angled slats for impeller blades is like going back to SB rated motor oil and chanting 'just fine' over and over, knowing full well it is not.
Regarding computer fans, they do not do well when a restriction is placed close behind the impeller. When I cut out the grille in front of the 60MM fan which came with the cheapowatt, airflow increased greatly and noise decreased.
Check out any fan spinning to 2k rpm or more. Put a restriction behind the impeller and the fan speeds up, moves less air and makes more noise.
Mex, back in the cheapowatt thread from a year ago, you decided the Borg's cheapowatt lids were going to be removed and tossed in the scrap bin.
As far as the most powerful 60MM dual ball bearing fan available:
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Electronics-AFB0612EH-ABF00-60x60x25mm-connector/dp/B004VSFDPE
But it is an inch thick, the 60mm fans in the cheapowatt and megawatt are only 10 mm thick.
I highly recommend cutting out the fan grille, and then one could put one of these exhausting on the outside of the case as it is too thick to fit within. So what if it appears as a Giant black square wart on the exterior. These power supplies are less than half the size of most converters already.
If one is going this far, one is better off getting a larger fan that will be quieter. Move more air and use less amperage. That 60MM fan above claims to consume 0.48 amps! for just 39CFM. This 120mm Noctua moves ~53 cfm for just 0.05 amps:
http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-Focused-Flow-Bearing/dp/B00JOCCSBE/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1441650859&sr=1-4&keywords=noctua+nf-f12
Do note that Noctua has Industrial versions of the above fan which are IP52 rated for protection against dust and moisture, they have a 2000 and a 3000 rpm version.
I have the 1500rpm version attached to my fridge condenser pushing air and my fridge performance instantly improved, and the amp draw of the Noctua is only ~40% of the Vitrifrigo provided fan. This was about 6 months of dust accumulation:
I now have a large air filter on the fridge air intake that gets dirty quick, but does not stop all the dust. Some very fine dust can still accumulate on the fan blades and condenser fins which I clean yearly.
Cutting the holes for 60 and 80MM fans on the Steel lid of my Meanwell was more difficult and time consuming than just cutting out the aluminum 60mm grille on the cheapowatt's lid, which appears nearly identical to the megawatt. Remove this restriction. Removing the megawatt lid is just 5 screws.
Static pressure ratings are more important when resistance to airflow comes into the mix.
My MeanWell has one additional 60 mm fan blowing in, and the 80MM fan sucking air out, and the MW provided 40MM fan also blows outward. When the 40MM fan does kick on, and it is Super high rpm and very loud, the 80mm fan barely exhausts anything as the super high rpm 40MM fan is just grabbing everything. The 60 and 80MM fans I added are not very powerful, but they are quiet and keep the 40MM fan from cycling on and off at just 6 amps, as occurred without the additional fans. Now it takes about 15 minutes at 40 amps output before the 40 MM fan kicks on, and below 70F ambient it will not even come on.
Always seeking improvement, I am going to try reversing the flow of the 80mm Fan, with both additional fans blowing inward and see at what point the 40Mm fan kicks off at when amps start tapering.
Also 2 of my external heatsinks can have a 60 mm fan directly screwed to the fins, and Westend also provided me with several 60mm fans when he mailed me the heatsinks last year, so I can improve heat removal even more.
I am a bit of a Muffin fan Nazi. As I type I have 6 of them running, from 80MM to 180MM. There are another another 6 which can be turned on, from 40mm to 120MM.
Mex, I recommend the Borg have one of these blowing inward:
http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Adjustment-Cooling-FM182/dp/B00VBNTB3W/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1441652141&sr=1-4&keywords=silverstone+180mm
I employ its thicker brother as an intake fan on my Van. It has been running continuously for at least 7 months now:
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Penetrator-2000rpm-Channeling-AP182/dp/B008VQ2Y2M/ref=pd_sim_sbs_147_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NRE2H4PHKR8YRYTG0GY&dpSrc=sims&dpST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_
The Silverstone fan in the first link, is a more recent offering but has impressive Specs and a better price. The included speed control is a feature I really like, but probably not necessary in your intended usage.
Computer fans vary so widely in performance, I cringe whenever I read 'just get a computer fan at radioshack'
Look at the technology that Noctua has provided with their fans:
Noctua NF-f12 features
Paying good money for a sleeve bearing fan with flat angled slats for impeller blades is like going back to SB rated motor oil and chanting 'just fine' over and over, knowing full well it is not.
