I have a 1990 dometic that works fine on electric, but barely works on gas. A few weeks ago it lasted about a day on gas, now it melts down within a few hours. The cooling unit is spotless, I mean no rust, barely looks like it was ever used. The regulator was replaced, the pressure at the burner is 12, the burner is spotless, no rust in it. The flame is a strong blue, never goes out , and the chimney temp, checked with an IR thermometer is the same wether on gas or electric. The chimney is clean as far as I can tell, I've blown air up it, and using a mirror, looks clean inside. I have cleaned the orifice with alcohol, made no difference, and the burner is in position directly under the chimney. I have owned this for about 4 yrs and it never really worked well on gas, now it's really getting unuseable, unless it's plugged in. Oh and all the other gas appliances work fine. What's left??the board??

Blowing air up the chimney don't work. You need to pull the baffle in the chimney from the top and clean it and run a bottle brush DOWN the chimney. I bet it's sooted up.I'm sure Biscuit will chime in shortly.

I have taken the top cover off my trailer and there is no way I can access the top of the chimney. There is a raised rectangular screened port that allows the heat out, but no access to the top of the chimney. I've had many old trailers, but have never had to clean the flue, and the only possible way to access it is to take the fridge out of the cabinet. I have tapped on the chimney, and gotten some light rust, nothing crazy, no big chunks or flakes, what I would consider normal.. And if there is a blockage, which I doubt, why would the external temp of the chimney, be the same as it is when it's plugged in?

Got me. Maybe it's time for a Danfoss compressor fridge.

Is the baffle still there and installed correctly? It's used to slow the rising heat down to thoroughly heat the tubes. Maybe the exhaust temperature is correct but the middle and lower sections aren't? The electric element spreads the heat automatically.

Have you removed the burner tube to look inside some times fine rust can build up inside the tube and block the flow of propane. If the tube is original the slots can enlarge over the years of repeated cleaning with a wire brush allowing more air to propane weakening the flame. I would not think it is your board.

Domestic 3804 Not Cold On Gas | Good Sam Community

Gjac
Explorer III
Aug 10, 2017
Have you removed the burner tube to look inside some times fine rust can build up inside the tube and block the flow of propane. If the tube is original the slots can enlarge over the years of repeated cleaning with a wire brush allowing more air to propane weakening the flame. I would not think it is your board.
wnjj
Explorer II
Aug 10, 2017
Is the baffle still there and installed correctly? It's used to slow the rising heat down to thoroughly heat the tubes. Maybe the exhaust temperature is correct but the middle and lower sections aren't? The electric element spreads the heat automatically.
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Aug 10, 2017
Got me. Maybe it's time for a Danfoss compressor fridge.
dano73
Explorer
Aug 10, 2017
I have taken the top cover off my trailer and there is no way I can access the top of the chimney. There is a raised rectangular screened port that allows the heat out, but no access to the top of the chimney. I've had many old trailers, but have never had to clean the flue, and the only possible way to access it is to take the fridge out of the cabinet. I have tapped on the chimney, and gotten some light rust, nothing crazy, no big chunks or flakes, what I would consider normal.. And if there is a blockage, which I doubt, why would the external temp of the chimney, be the same as it is when it's plugged in?
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Aug 10, 2017
Blowing air up the chimney don't work. You need to pull the baffle in the chimney from the top and clean it and run a bottle brush DOWN the chimney. I bet it's sooted up.

I'm sure Biscuit will chime in shortly.

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Domestic 3804 Not Cold On Gas

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