Domestic refrigerator
The freezer is working but the fridge bottom is not?? Any suggestions??
Forum Discussion
Dometic absorption fridge.....
Cooling unit uses TWO separate cooling sections for fridge operation
Low temp evap coil...freezer------it has to get down to 10*F before there is sufficient 'absorption' capacity for coolant to cool food section down via High Temp Evap Coil,
Freezer COLD...food compartment not
*Door seals.....clean seals/frame surface for good contact
Do door bill test between seal/frame several areas of door....should feel resistance when pulling bill out. Seals leaking/place ball of cotton under each corner of seal then heat entire seal using Hair Dryers. WHen entire seal is warm---close door and allow seal to 'reset'
*Evap Fin drip tray drain tube...should have 'plug' in end of drain tube---stops insects and WARM air from entering. Drain tube should hang outside via lower access vent
*Thermistor....needs good clean contact with fin. Tip should just protrude above top of clip (Depending on actual Model determines WHERE thermistor should be located..........models WITH adjustable temp settings (1-5) thermistor far right fin mid-center. Models with Auto Temp Control---far right fin and you can move thermistor UP for colder fridge/Down for warmer fridge
*Lower circuit board not allowing FULL heating cycle....new circuit board
*Cooling Unit obstruction/blockage between freezer/food compartment cooling sections. Freezer will get cold but food compatment will not......New cooling unit or replace fridge
To test cooling units ability to fully function
1st test.....disconnect thermistor leads on lower circuit board and allow fridge to operate for at least 12Hrs w/o thermistor connected.
If food compartment gets cold---replace thermistor
2nd test----disconnect electric element leads from lower circuit board
Plug the leads directly into a Known Working 120VAC Outlet---unplug fridge AC power Cord and use that outlet/verify it works
Run fridge for at least 12hrs.....this will bypass all controls/element will be energized continuously and fridge will get very cold IF cooling unit functions/no obstructions--blockages
Cooling unit uses TWO separate cooling sections for fridge operation
Low temp evap coil...freezer------it has to get down to 10*F before there is sufficient 'absorption' capacity for coolant to cool food section down via High Temp Evap Coil,
Freezer COLD...food compartment not
*Door seals.....clean seals/frame surface for good contact
Do door bill test between seal/frame several areas of door....should feel resistance when pulling bill out. Seals leaking/place ball of cotton under each corner of seal then heat entire seal using Hair Dryers. WHen entire seal is warm---close door and allow seal to 'reset'
*Evap Fin drip tray drain tube...should have 'plug' in end of drain tube---stops insects and WARM air from entering. Drain tube should hang outside via lower access vent
*Thermistor....needs good clean contact with fin. Tip should just protrude above top of clip (Depending on actual Model determines WHERE thermistor should be located..........models WITH adjustable temp settings (1-5) thermistor far right fin mid-center. Models with Auto Temp Control---far right fin and you can move thermistor UP for colder fridge/Down for warmer fridge
*Lower circuit board not allowing FULL heating cycle....new circuit board
*Cooling Unit obstruction/blockage between freezer/food compartment cooling sections. Freezer will get cold but food compatment will not......New cooling unit or replace fridge
To test cooling units ability to fully function
1st test.....disconnect thermistor leads on lower circuit board and allow fridge to operate for at least 12Hrs w/o thermistor connected.
If food compartment gets cold---replace thermistor
2nd test----disconnect electric element leads from lower circuit board
Plug the leads directly into a Known Working 120VAC Outlet---unplug fridge AC power Cord and use that outlet/verify it works
Run fridge for at least 12hrs.....this will bypass all controls/element will be energized continuously and fridge will get very cold IF cooling unit functions/no obstructions--blockages
