DFord wrote:
sayoung wrote:
FYI, the RUN capacitor only works at STARTUP. At roughly 70% of full rpm " back electromotive force , EMF " stops current flow thru start winding. .
Yes it's got symptoms of a a bad run cap but again what's the amp draw & voltage ?. Could be a bad wire terminal, locked compressor, on and on.
https://yorkcentraltechtalk.wordpress.com/2012/03/30/everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-capacitors/
York Central Tech Talk wrote:
The RUN capacitor is wired in series with the start winding of the motor and stays in the circuit all of the time. They are designed to dissipate heat associated with continuous operation of the motor. The whole purpose of the RUN capacitor is to bring the start winding back in phase with the run winding. The start winding is slightly out of phase with the run winding to provide starting torque for the motor. The RUN capacitor also provides “running torque” once the motor is up and running.
As you can see from the information above, the RUN capacitor is ALWAYS IN THE CIRCUIT helping the compressor / fan / any PERMANENT SPLIT CAPACITOR (PSC) motor perform better. sayoung before you start correcting people, educate yourself.
reread the info you posted and WHAT I wrote. Back EMF stops the current flow thru the START winding at about 70% of full operating rpm. The run cap never leaves the circuit but it QUITS flowing current, don't touch it cause it will flow then.Once it's actually at full rpm you can cut the wire of the start lead and compressor will keep running. You do not need a start capacitor to start most compressors with fixed orifice metering or rapid bleed Txv. Start caps use a relay to actually disconnect from the circuit. It can stay energized for about 7 seconds then things get ugly. But according to you I don't know , allways somebody that doesn't know jack shoots their mouth off on this Forum. Moderator will probably kick me off but that's fine.
