Dometic Refrigerator
The original fridge in my 2015 Fun Finder was an Atwood Helium POS. FINALLY, Atwood agreed to replace their fridge with a Dometic 2662 (I think that's the model). Anyway, although Dometic told me t...
Forum Discussion
Thanks for all the great info in this thread. I just unplugged the frame heating wire from my circuit board, it only took five minutes. Anyone that boondocks would probably want to do this. I can only remember a couple times in the last ten years that I had any condensation on the fridge so I don't need it on all the time.
My Dometic was manufactured in 2013 and is a model RM 3762 RBX.
The wiring diagram that is on the back of the fridge shows the "Heating Cable" is on P5 and is light blue, that is the one I unplugged.
It also shows the interior light bulb is on a separate circuit P6 and is red. The light bulb circuit also has another wire connected to P7 and is grey. I think that grey wire is for the "Low Ambient Control" circuit.
I read about the Low Ambient Control in the manual here.
"Low Ambient Control
In colder weather, the temperature inside the absorption refrigerator lower box tends to hold the temperature inside for a very much longer period of time, with very long pe¬riods in between ON/OFF cycling of the heat source; this is OK for any food product inside the refrigerator cabinet, but is not OK for the freezer compartment (if it happens to have perishable product inside). Because of the long time in between cycling ON/OFF, there is a chance that the temperature may rise above freezing in the freezer com¬partment, resulting in food spoilage. This is why we have a low ambient control. If it so happens that the tempera¬ture in the refrigerator has satisfied the thermostat set¬ting, and the CUT-OUT threshold has been reached, the refrigerator cycles OFF. If the temperature remains at lower than the CUT-IN threshold for 35 minutes or longer, the LAC output will be activated; this output, typically, is connected to the interior lamp situated inside the refrig¬erator compartment. The warmth generated by the lamp slowly raises the temperature inside the refrigerator cabi¬net to the CUT-IN threshold; when CUT-IN is achieved, the refrigerator cycles back ON again. At this point, the LAC output is de-activated, and the interior lamp turns OFF. The refrigerator will now assume normal operation, and will continue to cool until thermostat is satisfied once more. If it should so happen that CUT-IN is not achieved again within 35 minutes, the LAC process will be initiated once more (and any time thereafter) as required."
So I guess anyone like me that has replaced the bulb in the fridge with an LED will not have the use of this feature since the LED probably doesn't put out enough heat.
I almost never camp anymore in that cold of weather, but I guess I could carry the old bulb along just incase.
Also, under the circuit board cover I found two fuses I did not know were there. One 5amp mini fuse and one old time style 5amp glass fuse. The glass fuse is about half the size of a standard glass fuse so that will be fun trying to find a spare.
Thanks again for all the good info, have a nice holiday weekend!
My Dometic was manufactured in 2013 and is a model RM 3762 RBX.
The wiring diagram that is on the back of the fridge shows the "Heating Cable" is on P5 and is light blue, that is the one I unplugged.
It also shows the interior light bulb is on a separate circuit P6 and is red. The light bulb circuit also has another wire connected to P7 and is grey. I think that grey wire is for the "Low Ambient Control" circuit.
I read about the Low Ambient Control in the manual here.
"Low Ambient Control
In colder weather, the temperature inside the absorption refrigerator lower box tends to hold the temperature inside for a very much longer period of time, with very long pe¬riods in between ON/OFF cycling of the heat source; this is OK for any food product inside the refrigerator cabinet, but is not OK for the freezer compartment (if it happens to have perishable product inside). Because of the long time in between cycling ON/OFF, there is a chance that the temperature may rise above freezing in the freezer com¬partment, resulting in food spoilage. This is why we have a low ambient control. If it so happens that the tempera¬ture in the refrigerator has satisfied the thermostat set¬ting, and the CUT-OUT threshold has been reached, the refrigerator cycles OFF. If the temperature remains at lower than the CUT-IN threshold for 35 minutes or longer, the LAC output will be activated; this output, typically, is connected to the interior lamp situated inside the refrig¬erator compartment. The warmth generated by the lamp slowly raises the temperature inside the refrigerator cabi¬net to the CUT-IN threshold; when CUT-IN is achieved, the refrigerator cycles back ON again. At this point, the LAC output is de-activated, and the interior lamp turns OFF. The refrigerator will now assume normal operation, and will continue to cool until thermostat is satisfied once more. If it should so happen that CUT-IN is not achieved again within 35 minutes, the LAC process will be initiated once more (and any time thereafter) as required."
So I guess anyone like me that has replaced the bulb in the fridge with an LED will not have the use of this feature since the LED probably doesn't put out enough heat.
I almost never camp anymore in that cold of weather, but I guess I could carry the old bulb along just incase.
Also, under the circuit board cover I found two fuses I did not know were there. One 5amp mini fuse and one old time style 5amp glass fuse. The glass fuse is about half the size of a standard glass fuse so that will be fun trying to find a spare.
Thanks again for all the good info, have a nice holiday weekend!
