Hi Bob, no offense taken, and I certainly appreciate the input but I would ask that you re-read my previous posts and examine all the information I have provided. Let's consider the facts (or perhaps better stated, the facts I have at my disposal) and what I have to work with.
1. I have a (presumably) accurate schematic.
2. I am not an expert in this field (hence my presence in this forum), but I consider myself pretty knowlegable and a pretty good troubleshooter.
3.There are some discrepancies presented by others here in this thread as to whether the schematic I have is, in fact accurate. An earlier poster mentioned a few things that would lead me to belive that there may be another, more accurate schematic than I have.
4.From my schematic and the troubleshooting manual for my model, and contrary to your mention, the amount of thermostats is unclear. The troubleshooting manual mentions (QUOTING):
From Troubleshooting Manual wrote:
GAS OPERATION
REFRIGERATORS WITH PIEZO IGNITOR
(RM2452 & RM2453)
To start the refrigerator, turn knob “A” to the “GAS” position.
Turn the thermostat knob “B” one-quarter (1/4) of a turn from the “OFF” position.
Push button “C”, push button “D” for the piezo ignitor several times to light the burner. This can be observed on the flame indicator “E”, on the refrigerator.
After the flame lights, continue to hold button “C” for an additional ten (10) seconds. Release the button “C” and check the flame indicator
ELECTRIC OPERATION
Check to be sure the power cord is properly connected to the power supply. If the refrigerator is equipped for 12 volt DC operation, the tow vehicle or caravan engine should be running to prevent discharging the battery.
Turn knob “A” to the position marked “ELEC” for 120 volt AC operation or “12V” for 12 volt DC operation.
Turn the thermostat knob “9” one-quarter (l/4) of a turn from the “OFF” position.
To shut off the refrigerator, turn knob “A” to the “OFF” position.
THERMOSTAT
The refrigerator is equipped with a thermostat that can be adjusted by turning knob “9” to a different setting to maintain the desired cabinet temperature.
“OFF” Setting of the Thermostat: In gas operation, the thermostat closes its main valve and the burner runs continuously at the bypass rate or pilot. In electrical operation, the contacts in the thermostat are open and the heating elements are off.
“MAX” Setting of the Thermostat: In gas operation, the thermostat allows the burner to remain on high flame continuously. In electric operation, the heating element is “ON” continuously.
The thermostat can be adjusted between “MAX” and “OFF” to obtain the desired cabinet temperature. The closer the knob is to “MAX”, the colder the cabinet temperature. The closer the knob is to “OFF”, the warmer the cabinet temperature.
When the thermostat reaches the set temperature, it will cut the burner back to bypass or, in electric operation, shut off the heating element.
THERMOSTAT LP GAS MODE
The thermostat is calibrated by the manufacturer so that at mid-range the cabinet temperature should be approximately 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
From the above, I gleen that the unit has ONE thermostat and that it controls all 3 modes of operation. AC, DC and LP.
3. Also contrary to your recent post, it DOES NOT work properly on AC it freezes everything (see OP). It DOES however, appear to function properly on LP.
4. 12V is not used for ANYTHING else on this fridge. Except secondarily, the voltage necessary to hold the LP gas solenoid open for proper operation when in LP mode. (the schematic I have shows NOTHING for this). There is no interior light and no circuit boards etc.
Summarizing, I believe I have two separate issues.
1. A shorted thermostat or the wiring pertaining to it.
2. A 12V cooling issue. I don't think they are related.
My conclusions:
1. Most likely a bad tstat. (But why does LP work fine).
2. I'm stumped. Electrical and resistive measurements check out ok and corroborate each other with 13.67V at the heater, and 15 Amps current and (newly measured .9 OHMS resistance). If it's not providing heat to the boiler, the energy in this circuit HAS to be going somewhere.
I am not trying to be argumentative. I am trying to provide as much pertinent information as possible in the hope that my situation could be explained/confirmed. My objective in posting was hoping that someone may have seen this (these) symptom(s) before and could shed some light on it/them.
Only the first issue makes logical sense, and If I had confirmation I'd be willing to go through the arduous and expensive task of removing the fridge and replacing the tstat.
The second one? I am at a loss.
Thanks.
